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ok, who stole my air screws? They're missing!!
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MakDad
Sorry to dig this one out from the "archives" (lol) but my question (yes, noob, I know) is: Are these REALLY necessary to remove when cleaning the Carbs or just the "better" thing to do? Thanks !
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Pull them out and replace the o-ring. This only controls the bottom end but mostly the idle.
No shortcuts1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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MakDad
Yes.... after the float pin dilemma ..
Already broke the first tab that holds the stupid float pin in....
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Originally posted by MakDad View PostYes.... after the float pin dilemma ..
Already broke the first tab that holds the stupid float pin in....
Maybe someone here can help you with a carb body.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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MakDad
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostWhich carb and what bike?
Maybe someone here can help you with a carb body.
'82 750 is the bike... carb #1
I'll try some of the JB Weld to repair the post... It's the post that does NOT have the head of the pin... with the pin sitting in there pretty good, I'm not even sure I have to JB Weld it... looks solid even with one post broken...Last edited by Guest; 03-14-2010, 01:54 AM.
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