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8 to 16 valve conversion

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    #16
    the only reason i aksed about the 750 was that i picked one up cheap the other day. the mounts look the same but would have to change the clutch set up for the newer motor. my 77 has low compression and was just trying the save the cost of a rebuild. looks like i'll just have to pony up the cash. whats a good price on a valve job for a 8v? or should i just clean the head and change valve springs, lap the valves and reassemble? bike has 36,000 miles.

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      #17
      Originally posted by heathen View Post
      the only reason i aksed about the 750 was that i picked one up cheap the other day. the mounts look the same but would have to change the clutch set up for the newer motor. my 77 has low compression and was just trying the save the cost of a rebuild. looks like i'll just have to pony up the cash. whats a good price on a valve job for a 8v? or should i just clean the head and change valve springs, lap the valves and reassemble? bike has 36,000 miles.
      Compression issues stem not only from the valves, but also the piston rings. If you have a decent set of tools, and access to a ball hone (or a stick hone will work too) you can do a rebuild yourself. If youve any mechanical experience, its really NOT that difficult, and everyone here can help guide you thru it. A manual, especially a SUZUKI shop manual is ESPECIALLY helpfull. I had never done it either, but that manual basicly saved my life. Ive done and helped to a couple of them now. The only thing you'd really need to do if you so desired, is have the head machined where it meets the jugs to assure a good level seal. But, with that low amount of miles on it, if it looks pretty straight and level, you might get by without it. Steve from the board here just put up a nice VIDEO tutorial on replacing the valves. You can even MAKE your own valve spring compressor CHEAP and he tells you how. Just get all your parts together first, and take a day off from work, and hit it hard, you can probably get it done in one day. You'll need a gasket kit, valve seals, piston rings and your tools, and thats pretty much it!

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        #18
        Originally posted by heathen View Post
        the only reason i aksed about the 750 was that i picked one up cheap the other day. the mounts look the same but would have to change the clutch set up for the newer motor. my 77 has low compression and was just trying the save the cost of a rebuild. looks like i'll just have to pony up the cash. whats a good price on a valve job for a 8v? or should i just clean the head and change valve springs, lap the valves and reassemble? bike has 36,000 miles.
        Just clean the head and lap the valves. I doubt your valve springs are bad with that few miles. I suggest you do a compression test on all four cylinders when the motor is cold. Pull all the sparkplugs then run a test on each cylinder. If one of the cylinders is very low, pour about a tablespoon of heavy oil (40W or heavier is best - not 10W-40) into the sparkplug hole then immediately run a compression test on that cylinder. If it increases a great deal then you have bad rings or excessively worn cylinder, or both. If nothing changes or it changes very little then you probably have a valve problem.

        Hap

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          #19
          i am going to do the wet test tomorrow. am going to do the rings but thought id do the head while its off. i down loaded the service manual it will help. have built many race car engines so don't think this will be to hard. hey i'm already ahead of the game this thing is missing 4 cylinders (lol). i am going to start on it sunday. not in a hurry will take about a week i figure. of course that is if my son will stop breaking his racecar.

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            #20
            I agree with Hap, didnt read the post thoroughly, your valve SPRINGS should be just fine. Before you take your head apart tho, you may want to inventory your valve shims, just so you know where your starting point will be when you put it back together. After you get it back together, i would suggest double checking your clearances, likely they may change. Seals, rings, lap and MAYBE have the head machined if you think it needs it. You sound like you know motors well enough, this one will prove nice and simple. And actually, quite fun. I dont worry bout the top end of my 8v motors, but Ive never split the cases, and really, i dont want too..lol

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              #21
              Splitting the cases looks dificult but it's not if you take your time, take pictures for reference

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                #22
                Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                I agree with Hap, didnt read the post thoroughly, your valve SPRINGS should be just fine. Before you take your head apart tho, you may want to inventory your valve shims, just so you know where your starting point will be when you put it back together. After you get it back together, i would suggest double checking your clearances, likely they may change. Seals, rings, lap and MAYBE have the head machined if you think it needs it. You sound like you know motors well enough, this one will prove nice and simple. And actually, quite fun. I dont worry bout the top end of my 8v motors, but Ive never split the cases, and really, i dont want too..lol
                Its not that difficult CAFE. I'll give you a hand if you ever decide to do it. All advice is free.

                Cheers. don.
                Last edited by Guest; 05-31-2008, 06:31 AM.

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                  #23
                  did the wet compression test this morning. gained 50 psi across the board. best cylinder was at 150 up from 105 worst cylinder was up from 60 to 110.

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                    #24
                    Re-ring and let 'er rip!

                    Hap

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