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Uaaghhh Carbs!

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    #16
    if your running all stock componants, airbox and exhaust.. than they should be realtively close to the factory settings, if your having to run them more rich, than you probably have an airbox leak or some other kind of seal problem

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      #17
      Originally posted by 80GS750 View Post
      if your running all stock componants, airbox and exhaust.. than they should be realtively close to the factory settings, if your having to run them more rich, than you probably have an airbox leak or some other kind of seal problem
      In my experience the factory settings are very lean and opening them up an extra turn or so helps a great deal.

      I still think the carbs should be vacuum synced before going too much farther. It's pure guess work in terms of what's wrong unless you verify a few things first.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #18
        Well, I pulled the carbs and checked my 2 troubled carbs. I completely went thru 2, blew out the passageways, inspected for dirt etc. I checked float level, all good. I reassembled it. Set my "fuel/idle mix screw to 3.5 and went to 4. I think I found the problem. When I pulled the carbs originally to clean them, I had a dickens of a time getting the needle seat out. Apparently, I must have bent it enough where the needle could get stuck. So even if the float was normal, the needle would not shut off fuel. So, I replaced it with another one, and the needle moves freely. I am surprised I didn't see that earlier.....damn eyesight going.

        I put everything back together, and tried to get the bike to start. No go. A couple of sputters, but that is it. Being that it is 94 degrees here, and I am working outside, I stopped working on it, partly from frustration, partly cause I am just too damn hot, and this was AFTER a dip in the pool. I have to pull the carbs out again, as I found that my choke rod assembly is in um, upside down. I was wondering why I couldn't get my choke to work right, and found that I think I may have installed it upside down. The actuator, is colliding with my throttle linkage at the carbs. Surprised it worked at all.

        I should know better.....Haste makes waste.

        Anyone got a pic of their carbs with how the choke assembly should be? I don't know how it goes back together, I just know it is wrong the way it is. It should not hit the throttle linkage assembly.

        Thanks
        Last edited by Guest; 05-31-2008, 09:06 PM.

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          #19
          bump........

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            #20
            this pic is from the carbs off my 82 gs850g. let me know if it helps


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              #21
              No. Sorry, but I have some kind of bar that goes between 2 and 3 carb.

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                #22
                Take out the choke rail and put it in the other direction. All the choke actuaters (fork type thingys that hook on the choke) face the same direction and the small screw goes into a notch on the choke rail.
                The bracket for the choke cable goes over the the carb that has the connection for the cable. I think it's #2.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #23
                  Okay, since it is raining, and I was in the garage, I decided to pull my carbs back out. I looked at the choke actuator. Trust me, I have a bar that connects to a bracket where the cable goes into it. Not the bar that goes thru all the carbs. This is a small brass piece that looks like a "U". Apparently, I had it hooked up to number 3 carb, and the bar got caught up on my throttle linkage. So, by looking at it, I found that it was suppose to go to number 2 carb, where the vacumn tube running thru it. A HA! So now, no binding on the choke assembly!

                  I told you how I think I found out why number 4 cylinder was running rich. The needle seat assembly for the float was out of round from me trying to pull it out. Guess I squeezed to hard on it, and bent it. I replaced it with another one. I figured since the needle could and would get stuck in the valve assembly, the float wouldn't stop the fuel flow, and she would fill beyond what is acceptable, hence running rich at all speeds.

                  Now, number 2 cylinder is not firing. I don't know why this is, but in this same thread, I tried turning the fuel/mixture screw in and out, but nothing happened. I have cleaned it, and cleaned it. I could eat out of this thing. I have checked the jets, looking for debris, or anything that would cause this to happen. It just isn't firing. Plug looks fine, probably because it is not getting any gas at all. I don't know why. Any hints?

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                    #24
                    Took the bike for a ride. Just to see what happens. Well, as soon as I got off the idle circuit, the bike runs great. Soon as I get to idle, number 2 cylinder doesn't fire. It's like it is not getting gas. Floats are full. It has been thouroughly cleaned, and I don't understand why it isn't firing. Well, I mean I know why, just don't know how to fix it. If it had gas, it would fire. Again, turning fuel/mixture screw does nothing. Any ideas? It is just the number 2 carb.

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                      #25
                      Did you use spray carb cleaner to make sure the pilot circuit is open - spray should dribble out that small hole in the carb body. Also make sure the pilot jet is not plugged (hole is killer small and you need to hold the jet up to the light to see if it's open).

                      Spark plug caps go bad after awhile and develop resistance. Did you check #2 by holding the plug against the side of the engine and verifying there is spark.

                      And don't forget carb sync and valve adjustment...
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        Did you use spray carb cleaner to make sure the pilot circuit is open - spray should dribble out that small hole in the carb body. Also make sure the pilot jet is not plugged (hole is killer small and you need to hold the jet up to the light to see if it's open).

                        Spark plug caps go bad after awhile and develop resistance. Did you check #2 by holding the plug against the side of the engine and verifying there is spark.

                        And don't forget carb sync and valve adjustment...
                        Yes, I sprayed it all out, and yeah, the hole is really small, but it was open. She sparks just fine. Like I said, anything over idle, she fires and runs fine, as soon as I get back down to an idle, that cylinder just doesn't get any gas. Carbs have been bench synced, and valves are within specs. Can't really do the vacumn sync on a carb that isn't firing. There would be no vacumn at all, would there? I dunno... I checked and re-checked everything that I can think of.

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