LED turn signal question.

[psyguy]

I will be testing here over the next few days to see what I can find.

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sounds like we can expect a pictorial if not a video-tutorial on cliff's website 8-[

not that i'm complaining :-D

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[Steve]

There will be a report, but probably not a pictorial, let alone a video. :shock:

Just got back a little bit ago from a 1037-mile trip in the last 30 hours and the garage is a little too warm to go out there now, so it will have to wait until tomorrow.

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[psyguy]

There will be a report, but probably not a pictorial, let alone a video. :shock:

i was only joking, hope you got that 8-[

[Steve]

Ya never know, I might be joking, too.

Just for that, I might make it into a half-hour infomercial.

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[EZman]

Hi guys,
I replaced the incandescent lights on my Gold Wing with LEDs and had the light out flashing signal.
I went to auto zone and got a flasher that does not recognize lights out. This thing actually blinks on the bench when power is applied.
It did not interfear with the autocancel or anything else.
You just have to know if you have a 3 or 2 pin connector.
It cost about $4.00.
Ernie

[Matchless]

Steve,
Initially when I bought my GS1000 the flashers did not work properly and I plugged in a 2 pin flasher unit. The flashers then worked perfectly but the ASCU part did not work. After studying the manual a bit I found that 23 watt bulbs were required and we only get 21W bulbs here and the PO had put smaller 10Watts in the rear flasher, thus giving me only a total of 31 Watts. Going to 42 Watts has got everything working with the original flasher including the ASCU, but with slightly slower flashing that stops and glows permanently when I stop with brakes and lights on.

I have since copied out the OEM 3 prong flasher diagram and found that the relay has a double coil and control prong to the ASCU and was looking around for a schematic of the ASCU with good intentions of a possible mod to work at lower load, but it was put aside for other more important things!
I am thus also interested in this and was wondering if someone has picked the resin out of an old one and drawn up the schematic or if someone has designed a DIY replacement that can be used.

[Steve]

Update on my end ... well, not much of a progress report, just to let you know that things have been ganging up on my and I have not had time to check anythng yet.

Matchless, that is pretty much what I have suspected about the 3-prong flashers, and is pretty much the point of this whole thread. My original question still remains ... has anyone replaced their flasher with an electronic flasher (does not matter if you still have incandescent bulbs or LEDs) and retained the self-cancel feature?

I will have to check some of the flashers on the store shelf to see if they have diagrams explaining what their third prong does. If nothing else, I might have to install a relay in the power lead to a 2-prong flasher. The relay would be triggered by the lead that used to go to the third prong on the stock flasher if that's what that thrid wire does. 8-[

Ernie (EZman), you have a GL1800? My 1500 does not have a 'lights out' feature, so I suspect it might be one of the newer ones.

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[Matchless]

Steve,
Here is an alternative http://www.triumph-online.co.uk/triu...m-1-1453-p.asp

It does not sense the speedo, but as it watches the brake release it should work well.

[Steve]

Could not get that page to open, but I saw in the header that it was in reference to a Kisan Signal Minder. Nice unit, but a bit $pendy at $110. I think I will resort to the "relay that feeds power to the electronic flasher" trick, if necessary. 8-[

I might get a chance to work on it this afternoon.

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[EZman]

HI Steve,
I have an 83 GL1100.
I just changed out the flasher unit to one of those that don't care what the load is. Everything still works just like it did before.
Even when I hook up the trailer it still works the same.
To me it was worth the 4 bucks. I rather not get into the cancellation units and other stuff that controls them.
Ernie

[Steve]

Everything still works just like it did before.
... I rather not get into the cancellation units and other stuff that controls them.
Ernie

OK, so clarify for me please. Did your self-cancel work before the new flasher or not?

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[Matchless]

Steve,
I had a look at a couple of wiring diagrams and read the bit on the operation of the self cancelling unit in the manual and noticed these:

1) The description in the manual is only for the older and larger self cancelling unit with 2 x plug connectors and it also seems a bit larger. See wiring diagram GS850 1979
2) The 1980 model bike has a smaller self cancelling unit with 7 wires coming out of it. See wiring diagram GS1000 1980.
3) The operation and diagram in the service manual is only for the older type and even the owners manual instruction is the same as for the older type.
4)The signal from the speedometer seems to be just a reed relay that is operated by a magnet on every revolution of the speedo. Have not measured pulses per rev, may be more than one.
5)Suzuki seems to measure the frequency of these pulses and thus determines when you reach a speed of 15km/h.
6) Honda used this to measure the distance to determine when you have travelled 100 meters
7) In addition some other makes also sense the brakes and only start when the brakes are released.
8)There is also a timer built in the Honda unit which will cancell the flashers if both requirements are met, 10 seconds and 100 meters travelled
9)The wiring diagram shows a push to cancell switch that will manually cancell the flashers, this is not mentioned in the GS1000 1980 owners manual. Apparently the flasher button has to be pushed down - mine does not work.
10) The older self cancelling unit shows a 2 pin flasher and the newer one a 3 pin flasher
11) A 2 pin aftermarket flasher does operate the flashers properly, but the self cancelling feature does not work - only proved on the 1980 3 pin types.
12) The Honda unit also uses a 3 pin flasher unit, same as the later Suzukis and the "C" lug goes to the self cancelling unit.
13) I read somewhere that for some makes the 3rd lug is used for running lights and the writer cautioned that the flashers bulbs should not be used as running lights as their design did not allow for high heat build up and lower wattage bulbs should be used, obviously another reason to use led's.

Maybe someone could design a small replacement using a PIC and thus allowing LED lamps and still have self cancelling features?

[Steve]

Thank you, Matchless. That explains some of my suspicions, but I am still going to do some experimentation. TheCafeKid and I were busy most of yesterday getting my son's 850 almost ready to roll, but we are still waiting on a couple of gaskets that are back-ordered. When this current flurry of activity subsides, I am going to do some checking on my wife's '82 850L, but I suspect that the Sky Blue wire that goes from the control unit to the flasher can be used to activate a relay that would then control power to a 2-pin electronic flasher. Hope to find out later today.

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[bakalorz]

<snip>

Maybe someone could design a small replacement using a PIC and thus allowing LED lamps and still have self cancelling features?

I'm doing just that.

It will use a PIC16HV785 which is a 20-pin pic.
It has a built in voltage regulator, (also comparators, opamps, a/d converter and more, which I don't use)
I have it set up with 8 inputs, and up to 10 outputs (p-channel mosfets)

I've designed and etched a board, and was farting around with the software, but got busy with other things (swingsets, bleeding brakes, changing tires ... still have to do valve clearances, sync carbs ... )

When I get it done, I'll provide info.
I'll post the layout and my code.
I'd probably program pics for people and make minor changes to code, but won't etch or solder boards.

[Matchless]

I'm doing just that.

It will use a PIC16HV785 which is a 20-pin pic.
It has a built in voltage regulator, (also comparators, opamps, a/d converter and more, which I don't use)
I have it set up with 8 inputs, and up to 10 outputs (p-channel mosfets)

I've designed and etched a board, and was farting around with the software, but got busy with other things (swingsets, bleeding brakes, changing tires ... still have to do valve clearances, sync carbs ... )

When I get it done, I'll provide info.
I'll post the layout and my code.
I'd probably program pics for people and make minor changes to code, but won't etch or solder boards.

Martin,
Thanks man! I wanted to ask you, but thought it a bit forward. Unfortunately I am also busy with the mechanics and have the bike in pieces.
Thanks again.