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    Possible Carb/fuel Question

    Ok, here I go again. (My 79 GS 750L)

    Thought I had the bike running great. Took it a guy who works on old bikes who told me it ran great. However, on my way home, it started hessitating a lot and acting like it wanted to kill. Got it home. I ended up putting in a new petcock that works great, so I get good gas flow.

    I ran it today and it started and ran fine. But after it warmed up, it started hessitating again, acting like a fuel flow problem. I took off the carb bowls and checked them--plenty of gas and seemingly clean.

    So now my question; a while back I took that carbs apart with my friend who is a car mechanic. We gave them a quick cleaning. Could it be that I need to do a more thorough job cleaning the carbs? What else would cause the hessitation?

    Thanks for any help!

    #2
    You might have junk floating around in your float bowls. Is the tank free of rust?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Originally posted by ryonker View Post
      ... a while back I took that carbs apart with my friend who is a car mechanic. We gave them a quick cleaning. Could it be that I need to do a more thorough job cleaning the carbs?
      This could depend on the history of the bike. If it sat for any length of time, a carb clean a usually called for. If you did a 'quick clean', then yes, a more thorough cleaning is definitely in order. There is probably no need to buy any of the rebuild kits that will end up costing you $50-100, as they only have a couple of the o-rings you need and a bunch of brass parts that you don't need. Your best bet is to get a can of Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip (about $25) and a complete set of o-rings ($18 from cycleorings.com. When you order your o-rings, be sure to also get the o-rings and screws for the intake tubes (about $10 for both).

      When you dip your carbs, make sure you have ALL non-metallic parts removed from the bodies. Dip the bodies and the jets, but ignore the directions on the can that say to dip them for 15-30 minutes. I have had much better success dipping them for 15-30 hours. Rinse in warm water, then put on your safety glasses and spray carb cleaner through all the little holes in the carb bodies. You will very quickly find that some of them will blow right back at you (hence the safety glasses), so be careful. Dry with compressed air, re-assemble with new o-rings. Do a bench sync, install the carbs and air box, go for a ride. When the bike is warm, do your dynamic sync with gauges and you will be set for a while.

      .
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        #4
        Thanks

        Thanks Steve!!!!

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          #5
          Beginner Question

          Where do I get Berrymans Carb dip? an auto parts store?

          What is a bench Sync and how hard is it to do? I am a quick learner and have found working on my bike quite enjoyable.

          Thanks!

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