Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rear wheel maladjusted

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Rear wheel maladjusted

    For some reason, my bike has been leaning to the left lately. It's bad enough where it looks like I'm riding drunk trying to go straight. I'm just a little confused as to how to keep the rear wheel exactly straight.

    What is the proper way to adjust the rear wheel? I've seen so many ways, it's hard to find one that looks credible. I know the adjuster marks are off so I just try to eyeball it, but obviously that doesn't work too well.

    #2
    play around with a laser pointer

    Comment


      #3
      Assuming it's stock (no big 4:1 exhaust),

      Keeping the chain tension correct, tweak it until it coasts straight. Sighting down the chain is good, but doesn't always get you there. Whichever way it leans is the side that needs to come back a little more.

      My neighbors look at me funny when I'm going back and forth like a shriner in front of my house, but it works.
      Yamaha fz1 2007

      Comment


        #4
        One method uses strings tied to the rear wheel about 6 inches above the floor. Extend them to the front and tie to the front wheel. Look for equal spacing between the strings and the edges of the tires.

        I have had problems with that method because the string is so flexible. The method I used that worked better for me is to brace the bike so it will stand without using the centerstand. Clamp a straight 1x2 board to the back tire about as high as you can, without hitting any hard parts on the bike. The front end of the 1x2s shoud straddle the front wheel, and have a space on each side because the rear tire is wider than the front. Turn the front wheel so it is straight, then adjust the rear wheel until the spaces are equal on both sides of the front tire.

        This could be the point where I put in the plug for shaft-driven bikes by saying that we don't have to worry about doing this, but there is always the chance that something is mis-aligned on our swingarm and we can't do anything about it. :shock:

        Yup, there's advantages with both systems, but I will take a shaft over a chain any day for my type of riding. 8-[

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

        Comment


          #5
          Steve's way sounds good but it's hard to visualize. To do this, do I just need to loosen the axle nut or should I take the caliper off too?

          Comment


            #6
            OK, Shirl, does this help? You have to imagine clamps holding the boards to the rear tire, but you can see how a mis-aligned rear tire would show at the front.



            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment


              #7
              Yeah that helps, thanks. But do I need to go the whole nine yards and take off the caliper or just the axle nut?

              Comment


                #8
                Have you ever adjusted the chain? Same thing here. Loosen up the axle nut and tweak the adjusters. A rough alignment can be done by looking at the notches in the rear axle adjusters; the marks should align the same on both sides. If you have no idea what I'm talking about open the manual and check rear wheel adjustment. It's all spelled out there.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by ShirleySerious View Post
                  Yeah that helps, thanks. But do I need to go the whole nine yards and take off the caliper or just the axle nut?
                  Just loosen the axle nut.

                  Nessism mentioned in his next post about aligning by using the notches on the swingarm. He said "the marks should align the same on both sides". He's right, they should align on both sides, but, unfortunately, that is not always true. Once you align it properly, you can inspect the marks to see if yours happens to be stamped correctly.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
                  Mom's first ride
                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    So simple .. excellent tip


                    Originally posted by Steve View Post
                    One method uses strings tied to the rear wheel about 6 inches above the floor. Extend them to the front and tie to the front wheel. Look for equal spacing between the strings and the edges of the tires.

                    I have had problems with that method because the string is so flexible. The method I used that worked better for me is to brace the bike so it will stand without using the centerstand. Clamp a straight 1x2 board to the back tire about as high as you can, without hitting any hard parts on the bike. The front end of the 1x2s shoud straddle the front wheel, and have a space on each side because the rear tire is wider than the front. Turn the front wheel so it is straight, then adjust the rear wheel until the spaces are equal on both sides of the front tire.

                    This could be the point where I put in the plug for shaft-driven bikes by saying that we don't have to worry about doing this, but there is always the chance that something is mis-aligned on our swingarm and we can't do anything about it. :shock:

                    Yup, there's advantages with both systems, but I will take a shaft over a chain any day for my type of riding. 8-[

                    .

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Steve View Post
                      Just loosen the axle nut.

                      Nessism mentioned in his next post about aligning by using the notches on the swingarm. He said "the marks should align the same on both sides". He's right, they should align on both sides, but, unfortunately, that is not always true. Once you align it properly, you can inspect the marks to see if yours happens to be stamped correctly.

                      .

                      The marks are sometimes off but not enough to make the bike steer like you are sideways. It's a good starting point, do the string check after that.

                      BTW, the factory service manual for the GS550 show how to do the string test. They recommend some stud thingamabobs which are not necessary though.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I have to check my marks to see if they're lined up right. I've looked at them before but the last time I tried to adjust it, it was a little off.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I would check the wheel bearings.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                            I would check the wheel bearings.
                            How are they supposed to be?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by ShirleySerious View Post
                              For some reason, my bike has been leaning to the left lately. It's bad enough where it looks like I'm riding drunk trying to go straight. I'm just a little confused as to how to keep the rear wheel exactly straight.

                              What is the proper way to adjust the rear wheel? I've seen so many ways, it's hard to find one that looks credible. I know the adjuster marks are off so I just try to eyeball it, but obviously that doesn't work too well.
                              I've never had to adjust the rear wheel on my 1100G. :-D

                              But seriously Shirley don't rely on the adjuster marks; they aren't very accurate.

                              Remember to check your chain for tight spots before you tighten the axle nut.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X