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Rear wheel maladjusted

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    #16
    Originally posted by ShirleySerious View Post
    How are they supposed to be?
    No back and forth play in the rim and they should roll smoothly. Wedge the brake pads away to prevent drag to test.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #17
      Their is some adjustment from side to side on the shaft drive

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        #18
        I think I almost have it. It still goes to the left a tiny bit, but nowhere as bad as before. I'm tightening the left adjuster in 1/4 turn increments. I used the wood trick.

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          #19
          Isn't it amazing how simple, yet accurate, that method is? :-\"

          Note that you may never get all the pull out of the bike due to factors that are beyond your control. If you ride on crowned roads, it's like the bike is leaning slightly to the left (in relation to the road), so the difference in circumference of the tire between the center of the tread and closer to the sidewall will also tend to pull to the side a bit. One rumor has it that this is why the left side of the tire wears out a bit quicker than the right.

          .
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          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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            #20
            i have never tried the wood thing... but i may in the future... seems like an awesome idea...

            i always use the notches on the swingarm, but i never knew a better way

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              #21
              I like the lazer pointer idea, have to try that out.

              There can be other reasons for the bike to pull to one side, frame bent, forks tweaked, etc.
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                #22
                I can't see it behaving in that manner with the rear rim being a little out of adjustment. I use the marks and have never had a problem.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #23
                  I heard about using 1x1's but I tried that with a couple I had in my garage, but they're warped to all hell. I found that 6' 2x4 studs work best.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
                    Their is some adjustment from side to side on the shaft drive
                    Yea but not enough to even come close to the problem that Shirley is having. The 1100G never needs any chain lube either.

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                      #25
                      Shirley,
                      Here is a link with the process in quite a bit of detail and a picture or two http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryde...ntmethod.shtml
                      Do you suspect anything bent? has the bike been down at any time?
                      Hope it helps a bit.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Matchless View Post
                        Shirley,
                        Here is a link with the process in quite a bit of detail and a picture or two http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryde...ntmethod.shtml
                        Do you suspect anything bent? has the bike been down at any time?
                        Hope it helps a bit.
                        Meh, thanks, but too much work for my lazy ass. Plus I don't have the money for the tools mentioned that I don't already have.

                        Under my watch, the bike has never been down, although I can't speak for the PO. The problem might have arisen from when I tried taking off my chain (unsuccessfully) to clean it.

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