Pilot Jet Plug

[Guest]

I am doing up a set of CV carbs for my 650 top end conversion to my GS550 and have found that the pilot jet plugs are a loose fit in their positions. Is it essentail to replace these? does it matter if they are not replaced? I also need to remove the carb float pin. It appears to have a porton on the end that is larger than the pin itself. Sort of like the flat head on a small nail. Does this head need to be removed before I can remove the float pin. Or am I completely misreading how this thing is assembled. If I've missed the boat let me know.
Cheers
Don

[Nessism]

Plugs are held in place by the floatbowl but they do need to fit semi snug.

Float pins are pushed out from the end oposite the nail head. Support the post before you go punching on the pin or the post may snap off.

[Steve]

Yes, you do need the rubber plugs. The pilot jets that are just above the rubber plugs are supposed to draw a metered amount of fuel through the main jet. Without the rubber plug, they can draw freely from the float bowl.

You have missed the boat. As Nessism said, push the pin out toward the 'nail head'. Nobody really knows why the pins are so tight. There is no need for that because the sides of the float bowl will prevent them from coming out.

.

[chef1366]

Gives us "shade tree mechanics" something to do. Chase down new carb bodies and getting blood blisters on our thumb nails.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Just grab the nail head with a small pair of side cut pliers Then push it out the rest of the way.
If the float pin will not slide in when you put them together try inserting from the other side helps

[Suzuki_Don]

Plugs are held in place by the floatbowl but they do need to fit semi snug.

Float pins are pushed out from the end oposite the nail head. Support the post before you go punching on the pin or the post may snap off.

Thanks Guys. This is probably a dumb question, but which post do I support, the one nearest the hammer or the one farthest away.

[chef1366]

Thanks Guys. This is probably a dumb question, but which post do I support, the one nearest the hammer or the one farthest away.

Hammer side............

[Suzuki_Don]

Hammer side............

Thanks CHEF. I still remember the mechanic under the trees. Doing the 4-valve top end of his motor. Bare feet and all. Obviously no rattlers in your area.

Thanks too NESSISM, I learn something everytime I ask a question on this site. This time you explained where the pilot jet gets its fuel from (the main jet) and the reason for the plug in the pilot jet hole, so fuel is not drawn up from the float bowl. I am still trying to get my head around the differences between the VM and CV carbs. My previous experience has been on VMs. No black plastic plug covering the pilot jet in them.

BTW I have managed to get the first float bowl pin out OK, no damage. No such pin issues on VMs. But I will get there.
Thanks again everyone.

EDIT: SORRY Steve I gave the Kudos to the wrong person. It's you who taught me something this time. Cheers.

[Nessism]

Sorry if this sounds like a contradiction to Bill’s response but the post that needs support is the one next to that nail head on the pin. The pin flares out just under that head, and that is where the interference fit is.

When driving the pins out I support the float post on the edge of my wooden workbench – as close to the nail head as possible. Using a small punch and hammer, drive the pin out. You can try to grab the head of the pin as Lynn suggests with some pliers, but in my experience there is not enough pin to grab onto.

Good luck.

[chef1366]

I always thought they flared out at the other end. My bad. I've done enough of them I should know that.

[Suzuki_Don]

Sorry if this sounds like a contradiction to Bill’s response but the post that needs support is the one next to that nail head on the pin. The pin flares out just under that head, and that is where the interference fit is.

When driving the pins out I support the float post on the edge of my wooden workbench – as close to the nail head as possible. Using a small punch and hammer, drive the pin out. You can try to grab the head of the pin as Lynn suggests with some pliers, but in my experience there is not enough pin to grab onto.

Good luck.

That was my experience too, the flat head was too close to the float post and I couldn't get the diagonal pliers in under the head. Being an ex telephone linesman I had a connector tool in the tool box that has a cutaway in the jaws that fitted well enough to move the pin a small amount and then I was able to pull it out from the other end.