Digital Voltmeter question

[doctorgonzo]

I installed my digital voltmeter last night. Having replaced the fuse block with a 6 fuse ATC I have a couple spares, so ran it from the fuse block to the the meter with a ground to the horn mount bolted to the frame. It worked out well. Installed it with velcro right on top of my cluster (it's a small rectangular box smaller than a matchbox, so doesn't look bad. Here is my question. Run from the fuseblock it only ever shows 12.5 volts. If the bike has been sitting it might show 11 or 10.9 until I fire the bike up then it will run up to 12.5 or 12.6 and hang steady there. Of course this doesn't show the voltage at the battery, but at the fuseblock. To show the voltage of the charging battery I'd have to wire it to the always on hot which means the meter would be on all the time, draining my battery and likely eventually burning out the meter. Am I thinking correctly here? That from the block showing 12.5 is correct and that would really be no way to run it directly from the battery because it would always be on?

[Steve]

There are a couple of ways to attack that 'problem', but let's answer a few questions first.

First of all, what voltmeter did you get?

Second, have you had the chance to verify its accuracy?

Third, if you use a known-accurate voltmeter at the fuse block, what does it read?
How about at the battery?

I have installed the 5-in-1 meter from Big Bike Parts on my wife's 850L.


This meter takes virtually nothing to run, until you add the backlights, so it is wired directly to the accessory terminal in the fuse block. The backlights are connected to a terminal strip that I have installed that is only ON when the key is on. There are a couple of advantages of having this on all the time (with this meter). If the bike has not been ridden for a few days , it is easy to see the battery voltage merely by walking by the bike and looking at the display. Having the temperature display available is also nice, but you also don't have to keep resetting the clock. :shock:

If you are using a meter that requires enough power that you don't want it on all the time, you can install a relay that is triggered by one of your switched wires. Run a wire from the battery, through a fuse, to the relay, then from the relay to the meter. This will give you an accurate reading from the battery, not the fuse block.

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[bonanzadave]

I use that gizmo like Steve and just pulled the main fuse, folded the A+ wires from the meter over, stuck them in the empty fuse socket and then stuck the fuse back in. I used a connector by the meter to unplug it when I want. I grounded it at the rr/battery common ground point. Works like a champ. The wire insulation is so cheap I need to put some kinda sleeve over them. I already had to repair a wire chafe.

[doctorgonzo]

I got this one.

http://www.digitalmeter.com/cgi-bin/webshop.cgi?config=configspc.txt

I'll verify accuracy with multimeter tonight. In the long run, I suppose it doesn't matter. If I am charging well with it reading 12.5 to 12.7 (where I maxed this morning on the ride in) and the battery is charging well at that reading, then that can be the baseline and movement up or down is a concern.

[Steve]

Nice meter. \\/

I would think that it would be rather accurate, at least within a tenth of a volt, so your reading are surprisingly low.
I would recommend the relay that feeds it full battery voltage when the key is switched on. 8-[

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[doctorgonzo]

Nice meter. \\/

I would think that it would be rather accurate, at least within a tenth of a volt, so your reading are surprisingly low.
I would recommend the relay that feeds it full battery voltage when the key is switched on. 8-[

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Probably not a bad idea. I have to get into wiring again as soon as I figure out where to mount these gigantic Stebel Horns I bought a month ago. Stll trying to figure out the best place. It seems low to me as well. The interesting part is that with the motor running for a few seconds it hits that votage and man it is rock steady. It doesn't vary at all. When I come to a stop and hit the brake light, turn signals, etc.... it will drop to 12.0 or 11.9 and then as soon as I take off, unwavering at 12.6 or 12.7.

[J_C]

DG, which stebel did you get, the dual trumpets? Here's how I did mine:






Could you post up a picture of where you mounted up the voltmeter? Just on top of the gauges? I love that little guy for it's simplicity; I wish there was somewhere I could install it like those goldwing folks did, right into the fairing bezel. Looks sharp. Kind of pricey for something so teeny tho

[doctorgonzo]

DG, which stebel did you get, the dual trumpets? Here's how I did mine:






Could you post up a picture of where you mounted up the voltmeter? Just on top of the gauges? I love that little guy for it's simplicity; I wish there was somewhere I could install it like those goldwing folks did, right into the fairing bezel. Looks sharp. Kind of pricey for something so teeny tho

Yep, I have the same ones. I'm thinking I'm going to have to wind up with something similar. I'd love to hide them but where.....

I'll try and get a pic of it and post at some point. It was a little pricey, but I agree on the simplicity and it's really small. You know the spot on top of your cluster between speedo and tach, right in the middle. Mine has small kind of recess groove that runs front to back. I just used velcro to stick it in there for now. I want a permanent cafe fairing at some point. Probably one of the S model reproductions. I just have a cheap emgo on it right now. When I re-do the fairing I may look for a more permanent "built in" kind of mounting for it.

Edit:
Looking at your pics again I see you cluster is different. It's pretty small though I'd say 1.25 inches by .75 inches.

[scotto58]

Hey Doc

Follow the link you posted to their website. On the right hand side click on "misc pictures". The first few paragraphs describes how a guy installed his meter with a switch that allows him to check voltage at both the fuseblock and the battery. The way it's done, you can't leave it "on" and drain the battery.

Scott

[doctorgonzo]

Hey Doc

Follow the link you posted to their website. On the right hand side click on "mics pictures". The first few paragraphs describes how a guy installed his meter with a switch that allows him to check voltage at both the fuseblock and the battery. The ways it's done, you can't leave it "on" and drain the battery.

Scott

Sweet. I missed that. Thank you sir.