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    replacement part

    I have damaged the rotor from the alternator on my gs1100e. I did it while removing it to fix the starter clutch. When i was whacking the tool with a hammer i hit the wheel and chipped the magnetic material. Also the bolts sheared of in such a way as to make it impossible to get all of them out without damaging the rotor further

    #2
    What model 1100 do you have?? The 80 thru 82 had a smaller end on the crank. The 83 thru the 1150 series used a bigger end. I have several sources for parts. Let me know I probably can find you something. Man I`ve been down this road before on big engines. 1425`s just didn`t crank good hot.

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      #3
      Originally posted by cbxchris
      What model 1100 do you have?? The 80 thru 82 had a smaller end on the crank. The 83 thru the 1150 series used a bigger end. I have several sources for parts. Let me know I probably can find you something. Man I`ve been down this road before on big engines. 1425`s just didn`t crank good hot.
      I have an 83 and it seems that i have a smaller size that Dave O on california who has an 82
      i needed to buy a 30mm tool and dave has a 33 or 34 mm tool????my wheelis about 5 1/8 in outside diameter. The tapered end of the crankshaft where the rotor mounts runs from 11mm to 22 mm

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        #4
        I am positive the 83 had the big end on the crank. Yours was a black motor???correct? I`ve had to many of these apart. Is there a chance this is not the original engine or crank? Be careful but a little heat will help. I also use a airwrench to remove. Be glad to to help in any way.

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          #5
          Originally posted by slopoke
          Originally posted by cbxchris
          What model 1100 do you have?? The 80 thru 82 had a smaller end on the crank. The 83 thru the 1150 series used a bigger end. I have several sources for parts. Let me know I probably can find you something. Man I`ve been down this road before on big engines. 1425`s just didn`t crank good hot.
          I have an 83 and it seems that i have a smaller size that Dave O on california who has an 82
          i needed to buy a 30mm tool and dave has a 33 or 34 mm tool????my wheelis about 5 1/8 in outside diameter. The tapered end of the crankshaft where the rotor mounts runs from 11mm to 22 mm
          Ive been scouring e-bay for you Dom, no luck yet but i'll keep trying, hope something turns up soon for you
          Wrench.

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            #6
            Originally posted by wrench
            Originally posted by slowpoke
            Originally posted by cbxchris
            What model 1100 do you have?? The 80 thru 82 had a smaller end on the crank. The 83 thru the 1150 series used a bigger end. I have several sources for parts. Let me know I probably can find you something. Man I`ve been down this road before on big engines. 1425`s just didn`t crank good hot.
            I have an 83 and it seems that i have a smaller size that Dave O on california who has an 82
            i needed to buy a 30mm tool and dave has a 33 or 34 mm tool????my wheelis about 5 1/8 in outside diameter. The tapered end of the crankshaft where the rotor mounts runs from 11mm to 22 mm
            Ive been scouring e-bay for you Dom, no luck yet but i'll keep trying, hope something turns up soon for you
            Wrench.
            Dink seems to think that because my rotor is 5 1/4 inches in diameter -smaller than the large driven gear and has a center hole that tapers from 11 to 22 mm i may have a 1100 kat in my bike. He has suggested that i take the engine numbers to my local dealer and see if they can shed any light on the subject. I'm up to my ears with the Yammy wiring. I sent for a shop manual on cd today for the yammy. I am starting to suspect some mystery relays that are on the bike. Ignition switch is ok
            wiring actually looks too good to have a break in it --the schematic that i took from the web may not be correct either. If i don't have any luck i will run a few of my own wires and get it going again. Now i hope i have a kat engine in my 1100e--yes a black engine.

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              #7
              I hate to be the one with bad news but the katana had the big end too. It also had the best rods that suzuki ever made. I`ve got a feeling when you get the rotor off it has spun. If it has usually there is nothing to do but repair it. A new large end can be put on and that would be a great time to weld your crank. Be careful with dealing with falicon....I`ll not go into it but I don`t trust them! Of course then you need the corect rotor and other parts. I think I can come up with the parts.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by cbxchris
                I hate to be the one with bad news but the katana had the big end too. It also had the best rods that suzuki ever made. I`ve got a feeling when you get the rotor off it has spun. If it has usually there is nothing to do but repair it. A new large end can be put on and that would be a great time to weld your crank. Be careful with dealing with falicon....I`ll not go into it but I don`t trust them! Of course then you need the corect rotor and other parts. I think I can come up with the parts.
                Please clarify " it has spun" I have also ruled out Falicon for anything. I had an experience with them when i was getting into doing my glutch basket. This is how i found Murdoch racing.

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                  #9
                  By spun I mean the rotor has slipped on the end of the crank. it usually ruins the tapered part of the crank and also the inside of the rotor. Thats one reason you are probably having starter problems...its sheared the bolts off. That was the reason for the bigger ends on the crank...more contact area and I also have seen on modified engines where the complete end snapped off. I know Jay personally at Murdock(MRE/Suncoast) I knew Murdock when he was alive...great guy...been dead probably at least 15 years. My guess is Jay uses falicon for a lot of his stuff. If you are close to Jay call and ask him to explain what I am talking about...he will know all about it and probably can help you with whatever you need. I`m from NC and raced for Carolina Cycle...we called Jay ....Jocko...its a inside joke.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by cbxchris
                    By spun I mean the rotor has slipped on the end of the crank. it usually ruins the tapered part of the crank and also the inside of the rotor. Thats one reason you are probably having starter problems...its sheared the bolts off. That was the reason for the bigger ends on the crank...more contact area and I also have seen on modified engines where the complete end snapped off. I know Jay personally at Murdock(MRE/Suncoast) I knew Murdock when he was alive...great guy...been dead probably at least 15 years. My guess is Jay uses falicon for a lot of his stuff. If you are close to Jay call and ask him to explain what I am talking about...he will know all about it and probably can help you with whatever you need. I`m from NC and raced for Carolina Cycle...we called Jay ....Jocko...its a inside joke.
                    If you saw what i had to go through to get the rotor off then you would know the rotor had not slipped. The taper in the rotor and on the crank are perfect. I am in contacr with Jay already and they have thier own machine shop now. I hope you are wrong about the crank but there isnt a mark on it. I cant wait to call him Jocko. I will see him this thursday i hope

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                      #11
                      Good deal...Jay`s alright. He has been racing GS based bikes for 20 years so I know he will be all the help you need. Actually I talked to Jay last week...I`ve got to call him tuesday about a pipe he is getting for me. Small world isn`t it??

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