.png "Powered by vBulletin")
Hi, I have had this bike for a couple years, it was given to me by my brother who bought it off ebay. (it gave him so much grief that he paid me for some work I did on his truck, I'm a diesel mechanic) Anyway, gas prices going up, figured I'd see what it would take to make this sucker road worthy. I've done a bit of work already, carbs were all gummed up, float valves stuck, etc. but the clutch release rod and seal need replaced. I had no problem getting the seal out, but the rod itself is gouged and pitted not to mention bent. (hopefully this isn't an indicator of the clutch condition.) To remove the release rod, do I have to remove the clutch? Or does the disk with the two spanner holes come out? Any info would be most appreciated. I've included a picture to illustrate. Thanks.
-
-
The rod should pull out freely. If it doesnt, the only thing that could stop it from sliding out is being bent. Its possible you might be able to remove it by taking it out from the other side of the engine, but you would have to remove the clutch, basket, etc to access that end of it. Being bent, I dont know
EarlLast edited by earlfor; 06-05-2008, 09:54 PM.Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T. -
Yes, just pull on the rod and it should come right out.Comment
-
Sorry Guys you are all off the mark. The clutch rod has an enlarged section on the clutch end of the rod and the rod will not fit down the cente hole of the gear shaft. You need to remove the clutch side cover with oil sight glass in it. Then remove the clutch pressure plate and then the push rod can be removed from that side of the motor.
See diagram below to see enlarged diameter on the clutch end of the push rod, that might look like a spring on the end of the push rod but it is not, it is cast in raised portions to prevent oil travelling down the push rod tunnel. The two holes in the bearing on the final drive side of the engine are not for a spanner, you have a needle (roller) bearing in there and that is how it is lubricated through those two holes.
Also the push rod changes diameter a couple of times over it's length.
CheersLast edited by Guest; 06-06-2008, 08:02 PM.Comment
-
Don, you confirmed my fears, but it's probably just as well to take a look at the clutch since the rod is in such crappy condition. Since I posted, another friend of mine thought that the bearing came out, allowing the release rod to be removed. Is this the case? Thanks for all the help guys.Comment
-
Pretty sure all you need to do is remove the inner clutch hub (six screws) and then remove the throw out piece followed by the pushrod. Only difficult part is coming up with a new gasket for the clutch cover and removing the cover screws (you will need an impact driver).Originally posted by Ramanag View Post
Good luck.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-ResurrectionComment
-
NESSISM if I'm not mistaken that's what I said. Maybe you just said it a bit more simpler. I do tend to complicate things.Originally posted by Nessism View PostComment
Comment