Best way to clean internal engine varnish ?

[hikermikem]

I've read here that running diesel oil for a short time will clean up an engine's insides. My GS850GLZ has sat for 15 years - should i change out the oil before I start her with the diesel flavor, or just regular oil? How long should I run the "clean-up" oil before changing - should i also add some MM oil or seafoam to mix?

I suspect there's a fair amont of varnish built up inside - only 7k miles so I wouldn't think there's any sludge.

Also, when i removed the intake boots to get at the o-rings i peered into the intake chamber. Kinda dirty & a little rusty, but what caught my eye was the condition of the valve stems; coated with what looked like carbon & varnish or maybe just rusted. Is this an issue, or will all this clean up once it runs for a while??

Any thoughts...

thanks,

mike

[rustybronco]

I'm going with drain and inspect the oil for bits and pieces, then if found ok, change it with your choice of oil run it for 300-600 miles drain and refill.
no "special" additives to the oil, let your oil changes clean it.

Also, when i removed the intake boots to get at the o-rings i peered into the intake chamber. Kinda dirty & a little rusty, but what caught my eye was the condition of the valve stems; coated with what looked like carbon & varnish or maybe just rusted. Is this an issue, or will all this clean up once it runs for a while??

seafoam, or a engine top end cleaner to clean the carbon off the valves (if the carbon is bad).

[Zooks]

The 'carbon' that builds up on valves, cylinders and pistons is often a good thing. Sort of like a protective coating. Just change the oil, new plugs, clean the carbs etc and ride it for a while. Messing with it will often make things go wrong. Leave well enough alone.

Remember - if it aint broke, don't fix it!

[Nessism]

I'm in the camp of change the oil and filter and ride. Change in 1000 miles or so if it makes you feel better.

BTW, the diesel oil is good stuff. Has more of "the good stuff" in it since it's designed to be used in engines that don't use catalysts.

[hikermikem]

Ok, thanks guys, just trying to be cautious. Just to confirm, it's OK then to use diesel oil instead of regular oil without bad things happening?

While we're talking about oil... this bike has a lockhart oil cooler installed. It's mounted where the horns would be,(if the PO hadn't removed them to mount the cooler.) Is this thing worth keeping on? Does the system need more oil in it to "compensate" for the extra cooler & connecting line volume?

There's only so much oil in a "full" system (based on the level shown in the window). Does the engine actually get less oil while running because of this cooler? I'm confused.

Thanks

[tkent02]

Ok, thanks guys, just trying to be cautious. Just to confirm, it's OK then to use diesel oil instead of regular oil without bad things happening?

NO! Not Diesel Oil as in what Diesels burn for fuel, what he meant was motor oil made for use in Diesel engines. Diesel Oil the fuel is Kerosene, is not what you want in your crankcase. Motor oil made for Diesel engines, such as Rotella, etc. is very good oil and works well in motorcycles with wet clutches.

Using Diesel the fuel in a crankcase to loosen up sludge might work on a '65 Plymouth with 300,000 miles on it, it is not needed on a motorcycle with 7,000.

While we're talking about oil... this bike has a lockhart oil cooler installed. It's mounted where the horns would be,(if the PO hadn't removed them to mount the cooler.) Is this thing worth keeping on? Does the system need more oil in it to "compensate" for the extra cooler & connecting line volume?

There's only so much oil in a "full" system (based on the level shown in the window). Does the engine actually get less oil while running because of this cooler? I'm confused.



Thanks

Unless you ride in stop and go traffic in Death Valley all summer or you are doing some kind of competition that is extremely hard on oil, an oil cooler is unnecessary and is a leak waiting to happen. These bikes didn't need oil coolers when they were built, oil is much better now than it was. If you are worried about oil getting too hot use synthetic oil, it can handle extreme temps. Especially so on the two valve engines like yours, which have all the cooling fin area they need.

[Calvin Blackmore]

i have used straight 30 weight diesel oil ( Diesel Motor Oil ) not diesel fuel, in the midst of the dog days of july and had not detrimetal effects
and it is high detergent and it does clean up a good deal of crap.

I have also flushed out my engine by slowly pouring a gallon of kerosene on the opened valve train ( which had no sludge or varnish as I do proepr oil changes at proper intervals ( with mobil 1 synthetic but lets not start the palaver about synth vs dino oil ) and subsequently draing the fuel then pulling and washing out the sump pan.
It was raining that day i think.

I know I did no harm as I have checked the specs on cam journals etc and after 60 K KMS there is no apprecialbe wear on the engine.

I see in your sig line you still have the 550 I thought youd given up on it.

[hikermikem]

Hi Calvin,

Still have the 550L, runs like a dog with gas on his a$$. It's just sitting though... my ex-wife was going to ride it but she can not touch the ground when sitting on it. She actually dumped it over a couple of times last year. I'm not sure what she's going to do with it. Shame, the bike is in good condition & runs well.

[hikermikem]

NO! Not Diesel Oil as in what Diesels burn for fuel, what he meant was motor oil made for use in Diesel engines. Diesel Oil the fuel is Kerosene, is not what you want in your crankcase. Motor oil made for Diesel engines, such as Rotella, etc. is very good oil and works well in motorcycles with wet clutches..

I meant the oil used in diesel engines, not the fuel - thanks though!

[hikermikem]

Unless you ride in stop and go traffic in Death Valley all summer or you are doing some kind of competition that is extremely hard on oil, an oil cooler is unnecessary and is a leak waiting to happen. These bikes didn't need oil coolers when they were built, oil is much better now than it was. If you are worried about oil getting too hot use synthetic oil, it can handle extreme temps. Especially so on the two valve engines like yours, which have all the cooling fin area they need.

If i remove the cooler, what do i do with the two line coming out of the engine. It's connected below the cam chain tensioner to two ports. Just plug them?

[Calvin Blackmore]

Cant touch the ground good god
thats a very low built bike
I have a 32 inch inseam and the ride height is plety plenty low for me by several inches

she must never touch thsi sweet sweet machine again till she gets stilts

odlly i saw to gals on largish harleys onces they were too shart for em and good god they had veritable paltform boots on

they could ride em though jst were a tad touchy ont he launch

they had nice tattos and were mean looking not poseurs at all

[hikermikem]

Well, she can touch only on her tip toes though... first bike for her & she got scared when she dropped it (twice).

So now she likes to say she has a bike, but she doesn't ride. Just as well, I'd be fixin' something broken off every day if she did.

[renobruce]

If you want to take the cooler off, I'll trade you the stock oil pressure sending unit for the one with the ports. PM sent.

[Nessism]

Bruce beat me to it.](*,) I'm in the camp that feels an oil cooler is nice to have if you ride in a hot climate, particularly if you do lots of slow riding in traffic.

In terms of using straight 30 weight in summer, this is a bad idea. 30 weight is thinner than 10W-40 when it matters - when the oil is hot. Most diesel engine oils are 15W-40 which is a good match for the GS engine.

[SqDancerLynn1]

No don't just plug them, check Ebay and get the original oil pressure sending unit/adapter or route the hose from one fitting to the other. The oil adapters are a sought after item. I use Shell Rotella T 15/40 oil in my 850 dino/ diesel oil
DO NOT PUT ADDITIVES in the oil unless you want to replace the clutch