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I finally took her out but had to push her home.

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    #16
    Originally posted by srsupertrap View Post
    Make sure that Stater Solenoid is also grounded. I replaced the OEM Rectifer & Regulator with a Rick's R & R and after the modification I found the Electrical Panel was "floating" and no longer gounded. During T/S I merely jumped a wire from the starter solenoid ground to chassis ground and that cured that self inflicted problem. Have a look . .

    IMO, a tidy electrical panel with the coil relay mod.
    Wife here again :-D Just went and took another look after reading your post. Are the starter relay and fuse box supposed to be grounded using a wire or are they grounded by the way they are attached? The starter relay only has 3 wires - red to the battery, red to the fuse box, and yellow/green for the starter circuit. The fuse box is pretty much the same situation, just different wires, kwim?

    My bad. Just had dh read what I posted and he reminded that the starter relay is grounded. It is a frame ground that we have cleaned. *blush*
    Last edited by Guest; 06-09-2008, 11:28 AM. Reason: mistake in info

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      #17
      Originally posted by Skateguy50 View Post
      Just got to say hes a lucky man to have you helping out on all this stuff.
      Thanks! :-D He told me I should get my own screen name since I spend as much if not more time on the forum than he does-lol

      Originally posted by Skateguy50 View Post
      ot, sounds like you are working through the issues, wiring is never fun to work on... but as confusing as it looks the more you get into it the more you understand the systems and overall these bikes are pretty basic when it comes to electrical systems.
      Exactly. I had never even read a wiring diagram before we started. I had only "touched" one other bike and that was riding on the back with my husband for about 30 minutes. When we first started, it seemed so overwhelming, now it is just one thing at a time. We are just working through things, hopefully we will get rid of the gremlins that have plagued this bike. I think the reason some of the wires were disconnected when we bought the bike was b/c the po was trying to troubleshoot and just got frustrated. I am pretty patient when it comes to working on problems (I have 4 kids and a husband, I have to be-lol). I just walk away when I get frustrated and think it over. I come to the forum and read and read, then go back and figure it out.

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        #18
        I would consider taking a different approach to 'troubleshooting' at this point.

        If my wiring were this screwed up, I would get the best wiring diagram I could find for my exact model, tear down the bike, unwrap/expose all the wires and trace every circuit in the diagram. It may look like a lot, but it really isn't that many wires. Make sure each wire goes where it's supposed to go and has voltage at its connection when it should. I honestly think this will save you time in the long run.

        When you are done, you will be one of the GSR 'experts' and we'll be asking you questions.

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          #19
          You might want to go to Bass Cliffs website for a manual



          Not sure if that will include your wiring diagram
          1978 GS 1000 (since new)
          1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
          1978 GS 1000 (parts)
          1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
          1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
          1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
          2007 DRz 400S
          1999 ATK 490ES
          1994 DR 350SES

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            #20
            Flyingace-
            We have unwrapped the front half of the wiring harness and inspected each wire. There were some nicks in the insulation, but not bare wire. We went ahead and wrapped the nicks with electrical tape. On everything that we have tested, we have continuity and voltage (other than the starter button to the starter relay, we repaired that). We have the Clymer manual and I have spent so many hours with it, I literally dream about it at night.

            Big T-
            Unfortunately he doesn't have the manual for our bike. Thanks though. We used some of his stuff until our manual arrived :-D

            Charged the battery overnight. It now has 13.2 volts. We are leaving to go out of town for a couple of days, so we will check it when we get home and see if it is holding. Then we will run through the Stator papers just to double check everything. A couple of the new connectors on the Stator end were loose (bad crimps) and so that could have added to the charging problem. We are still going to need to replace the starter relay, but we already knew that was going out. I think the po fried it by jumping it all the time instead of fixing the start button circuit. We are having a heck of a time finding the left handle switch. There is only one junkyard here, and they were less than helpful. We're going to check some places while we are in UT. Hopefully we will find the parts we need \\/

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              #21
              You don't crimp the connections from the stator, you solder them. If you want to use blade connectors, fine, but solder them on. It is a very important circuit and needs to be continuous all the time.

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                #22
                Problem fixed charging normal now. and have to buy any parts. When I put the new R/R in I thought I had it grounded to the battery, but I missed the wire it wasn't grounded. Now I feel like a freaking idiot.
                Thanks for all your help

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