Disabling AntiDive But Keeping the Look

[Pete Logan]

Can I safely disable the antidive on my '82 GS750E by making a copper gasket without a hole in it for the fluid to go through and fitting it to this joint ? Same as a block-off plate, but keeping the original look.

Is there anything else I have to worry about or do ? I have a nagging feeling there is, but can't for the life of me remember or find anything with search.

Thanks guys.

[Steve]

OK, I'm at a loss. What is so bad about the anti-dive that most of you want to disble it?

Worse yet, why disable it, yet keep "the look" and the (unsprung) weight.

Obviously, I have not ridden a Suzuki with anti-dive, or I might know this first-hand.
Other bikes I have ridden with anti-dive have worked rather well. 8-[

[lurch12_2000]

I have the anti-dive forks on the 1100ES and they seem to work well the few times I've had to do some quick braking.

[Pete Logan]

It's not that it's so terrible, I don't notice it and I don't ride hard enough to worry about unsprung weight and prefer to keep the look.

It's just to reduce the total amount of pumping that has to be done, which some people report firms up the lever and improves braking.

If enough people tell me I'm a donkey, I'll go out and buy a saddle instead :-D

[Ed Vrolijk]

OK, I'm at a loss. What is so bad about the anti-dive that most of you want to disble it?

because a: it doesn't work they way it should and b: it gives your frontbrake a rather spongy feeling.
Ed

[skreemer]

There is another way. It took them a few years bt if you look at the 1986 models they went from the brake actuated anti-dive to a preload adjust system. I know on the 550 models the forks are the same diameter through all the years...

Check to see if you can pick up a set of 1986 GS750 forks.

You'll need to change the banjo bolt on the caliper side to a smaller one...

[ironsheik]

Just pull the hose going from the caliper to the anti-dive, replace the dual line bolt on the caliper with the single line bolt from the anti-dive and get a shorter solid bolt to fit into the anti-dive. Simple enough me thinks and exactly what I intend when I fit my stainless lines...

[jbs80106]

what is it?

This mysterious 'anti dive'? Does my 82 650G have it? Just wondering...

[skreemer]

Just pull the hose going from the caliper to the anti-dive, replace the dual line bolt on the caliper with the single line bolt from the anti-dive and get a shorter solid bolt to fit into the anti-dive. Simple enough me thinks and exactly what I intend when I fit my stainless lines...

That takes care of the brake squishiness but still allows the oil from the forks to flow through it.. if they aren't working properly or worse if only one side isn't working properly you're asking for trouble.

[skreemer]

This mysterious 'anti dive'? Does my 82 650G have it? Just wondering...

Nope you do not...

If you're worried about your front end "diving" on ya I say go for a set of progressive front springs and slightly heavier fork oil. (the springs should cost about 80 - 100$ for the set)

[Muser3]

Anti-Dive Forks

I don't have a lot of GS experience but I started riding long before disc brakes came along. I regularly ride a BMW with ABS brakes, one without ABS, an old Goldwing and the GS1100EZ which is a real runner. I just replaced fork seals and on the first ride afterward I found the lock up point on the front and rear brakes. I really have found no problem with the front system at all. The lever is not Squishy feeling and it stops well. The calipers and MC have been recently rebuilt but I still have the old lines. I like the feel of steel lines and will add them soon. If the anti-dive system begins to have a negative effect on the bike's ability to stop I will make a change.
Lee :-D

[lurch12_2000]

because a: it doesn't work they way it should and b: it gives your frontbrake a rather spongy feeling.
Ed

Not looking for a debate, but again, today on my 70 mile ride I purposed to test out my stock anti dive setup on my '83 GS1100ES to find "problems".
But, I still think it works great, no spongy feel, very secure stopping behavior and is also better than my '83 GS1100G w/o anti dive.
I wouldn't disable it!

[seuadr]

Not looking for a debate, but again, today on my 70 mile ride I purposed to test out my stock anti dive setup on my '83 GS1100ES to find "problems".
But, I still think it works great, no spongy feel, very secure stopping behavior and is also better than my '83 GS1100G w/o anti dive.
I wouldn't disable it!

i agree.. my g is lucky enough to have e forks and i really like the feel of the anti dive. my brakes don't feel spongy.. in fact if i grab a handful for a hard stop they lock the front wheel with little effort!

[ironsheik]

That takes care of the brake squishiness but still allows the oil from the forks to flow through it.. if they aren't working properly or worse if only one side isn't working properly you're asking for trouble.

Doesn't this apply whether they're hooked up or not?

Josh

[Pete Logan]

There is another way. It took them a few years bt if you look at the 1986 models they went from the brake actuated anti-dive to a preload adjust system. I know on the 550 models the forks are the same diameter through all the years...

Check to see if you can pick up a set of 1986 GS750 forks.

You'll need to change the banjo bolt on the caliper side to a smaller one...

My forks have an aftermarket two-position mechanical pre-load adjuster.

Really, I just want to know a. if the solid gasket will work to switch off the anti-dive b. if there's anything else I have to do as well and c. if there's any good (ie: safety-related) reason not to do it.

Thanks for all the input, guys.