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    #1

    Another Valve Adjustment Question

    Received my niffty tappet depressor from Z1 today and took a quick shot at depressing a tappet just to see how it worked. After a couple of rather "gentle" attempts to depress without any noticeable depression, I thought it best to seek advice before I destroyed, mangled, mutilated, or otherwise damaged something very important.

    The bike is my '78 G750C restoration project.

    Is it correct that the highest ridge on the circular part of the tool should contact the outer rim of the tappet? How much pressure is needed to actually depress the tappet? How far down should the tappet move before the shim can be removed? Does the tool typically produce nicks in the edge of the tappet?

    Many questions and I'm hoping for some answers before I try again.

    Thanks,
    rickt
    Tags: None
    #2
    Originally posted by rickt View Post
    Received my niffty tappet depressor from Z1 today and took a quick shot at depressing a tappet just to see how it worked. After a couple of rather "gentle" attempts to depress without any noticeable depression, I thought it best to seek advice before I destroyed, mangled, mutilated, or otherwise damaged something very important.

    The bike is my '78 G750C restoration project.

    Is it correct that the highest ridge on the circular part of the tool should contact the outer rim of the tappet? How much pressure is needed to actually depress the tappet? How far down should the tappet move before the shim can be removed? Does the tool typically produce nicks in the edge of the tappet?

    Many questions and I'm hoping for some answers before I try again.

    Thanks,
    rickt
    Yes, decent pressure, as far as you can depress it, and no. LOL. You need to assure your cam lobe is rotated so that the point is UP, to assure you have needed room to get the shim out. They are FIDDLEY as i said, and sometimes they are more in your way than anything else. Good luck

    Comment

      #3
      Hi Mr. rickt,

      Also, make sure the curved part is maintaining pressure against the cam as you press the tappet tool down (a little oil/grease on the curved part of the tappet tool helps too). It's almost as if I'm pushing the tool toward the cam as I'm pushing it down. The highest ridge of the tool should press down on the rim of the bucket. Once you have it properly positioned and pressed down, the tool will stay in place and hold the bucket down while you get the shim in and out.



      Keep us informed.

      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
        Once you have it properly positioned and pressed down, the tool will stay in place and hold the bucket down while you get the shim in and out.
        And if you don't quite get it properly positioned, it'll snap back up before you get it pushed all the way down. And it does take pretty decent pressure. You need all the space you can get to get the shims in and out.

        Comment

          #5
          Just takes a little practice, lube it up, stick it in, get it in just the right place.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

          Comment

            #6
            I didn't have a tool so I took the camshafts off.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              I didn't have a tool so I took the camshafts off.
              I have to say, THAT is almost easier than fighting that tool sometimes. Maybe i just need more practice with it, but ive used it on three motors now, and the inside cylinders still aggrevate me to death. And I was simply trying to inventory on one of the motors, got ticked and just pulled the cams. I spent 30 minutes or so fighting with the tool, and it took me 10 to pull the cams, inventory and put the cams back in and time them.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                I didn't have a tool so I took the camshafts off.
                Show off! ;-)



                Thank you for your indulgence,

                BassCliff

                Comment

                  #9
                  i ended up pulling my cams too cause i didnt have the tool and i didnt know about the zip tie method....

                  but hey, whatever gets you there....

                  Comment

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