you may know this already or it may sound familiar so bear with me. last summer i bought an 81 gs450l to commute on. i work at a bike shop on sat's and a mechanic there that has been working on bikes his whole life (he's mid 50's i guess and has won national titles on his late 70's kawi drag bike) got the carbs straightened out for me. the receipt says 2 drain plug gaskets were replaced, along with 2 filters, 2 needle gaskets and a clear plastic inline fuel filter was added. the bike ran like a top all summer long. it was scary how few cranks this thing needed to instantly fire up. it takes forever to warm up but i think that's just the bike.
then the winter came and a sedentary job behind a computer prompted ebay to rear it's ugly head. i scored a set of new mac 2 into one pipes and a brand new recovered sargent seat so dang perfect you have to see it (possibly again!)
i put the pipes on and started it up to hear the new sound. without the baffle it was way too loud. so i am keeping it in. it idled fine and sounded great but i had to coax the throttle for it to rev up. the bike kept bogging down. i expected this.
i have been told before that just moving up one size in the main jet might be enough for the bike to run ok but it may be difficult to get it just right with much trial and error. "keep the stock exhaust" was typed by a few. it's just my commuter and doesn't have to be perfect so i'm hoping this jet change will suffice.
i have the clymer and a circa 1981 suzuki shop manual for the bike but i looked at the excellent pics in the carb thread here and proceeded to take the carbs off. when i took the float bowl off the first carb the main jet was not where i thought i was going to be. so i took the drain bolt out of the float bowl and there it was! i took them out of both float bowls and it looks like they say 115 on them.
let me note that the internal (inside the bigger boot screwed to the engine) rubber boots from carb to engine were perfect but the ones from carb to airbox were not. they were a little torn but not dried out. i will be replacing the carb to airbox boots when i put it back together and keeping the stock airbox, no pods for me.
i am also rebuilding the forks with new seals and progressive springs.
here come the questions if you've held on this long.
1. do i need to lightly grease the boots when i put the carbs back on or something similar to help it seal?
2. what is the next size main jet if these jets say 115?
3. is there a special "main jet screwdriver" for that oddly shaped slot?
4. can this be THAT easy?
AND...
4. why didn't anyone tell me that when i removed the cam chain tensioner to rebuild it utilizing the excellent write up i found on this site that fuel would come pouring out? i thought that it was leaking oil!
anybody who helps (or wants them for that matter) can have my old clamp on highway pegs (just the pegs, i'm keeping the engine protectors), windshield, and backrest/rack. you just pay shipping! i took them off to trim the bike down when i put my stock sv650 handlebars on the bike. the backrest/rack is a little rusty and was too wide for the little 450 frame but i got it on with spacers and the pegs are heavy as hell so think about what they may cost to ship to you from jersey. might not even be worth it but they're cherry. hope you lasted this long. i had to write this thing twice! it was erased the first time by accident and the computer TRIED a second time but i copied it just in case. the computer's lucky my fiance needs it for work! thanks for any help! here's a pic of the backrest and stuff on the bike.
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