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No power, fouled plugs

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    #16
    Well Hells Bells. :-) In this case, since the engine does idle, the easiest thing to do would be to connect a timing light to 1 cylinder and check through the timing window at any rpm under 1500. The F1 mark should align with the mark on the crankcase for cylinder 1 and the left ignition module. For adjustment on the left module, rotate the breaker plate/mounting plate. Counterclockwise rotation of the plate advances timing and clockwise retards timing. Then connect the timing light to either cylinder 2 or 3 to and look through the timing window to see that the F3 mark is aligned for adjustment on the right module. You will need to loosen the cap screws holding the right module and move it in whatever direction is needed. Movement of the module of .010" is equal to 1 deg of timing. Once the inition timing is correct, you can further refine timing by setting the engine to run at 2500 rpm (with the throttle adjustment knob between the carbs) and with a timing light check the timing on the advance marks. That would be F4 for the left module and F3 for the right module.
    Adjustment proceedure is the same.

    Earl


    Originally posted by Wheelie
    Hey Earl,

    He's got the Dyna ignition.

    Steve
    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

    That human beings can not bear too much reality, explains so much.

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      #17
      Thanks, I'll check that out. However, I think I found my problem, it has to do with me being an idiot . When I took the carbs off to look them over, I opened one of the bowls, and was amazed to see that every thing looked very clean, so I opted for the shortcut of just putting them on the bike, and see how things went. Figured, hey if one is clean, they all are, right? :roll: Wrong, DOH! I took them off again tonight, and figured I'd go thru the entire thing. I found the 2 lean cyls had the idle jets partially clogged. So that explains that. On the 2 rich cylindars I found that on one, the idle jet, and main jet were clogged completely, I'm not even sure how this one ran at all, but it did idle some. The other had a clean idle jet, and a completly clogged main jet. I figure what was happening, was when I opened the throttle the cyls would die completely, fouling the plugs. I haven't put the carbs back on yet, as I have to replace a couple of O-rings on the fuel screws. BTW all the fuel screws were set at 1.5 out, except one (cyl 4) that was 3.5 out, that was a lean cyl, but not as lean as cyl 3.

      Next time no "shortcuts" for me.
      Thanks again for all your help.

      Comment


        #18
        My Stepfather has a handy euphamism for that sort of thing - it's called "a case of operator trouble". It comes in handy for me every day, I hope it helps you too.

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          #19
          In the computer field we call it a id 10 t error (ID10T)

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            #20
            Ah Haaaa, glad you found your problem. I would hate to see you with burned exhaust valves. :-) I believe the first rule of wrenching should be, make no assumptions. :-) :-)

            Earl


            Originally posted by lhanscom
            Thanks, I'll check that out. However, I think I found my problem, it has to do with me being an idiot . When I took the carbs off to look them over, I opened one of the bowls, and was amazed to see that every thing looked very clean, so I opted for the shortcut of just putting them on the bike, and see how things went. Figured, hey if one is clean, they all are, right? :roll: Wrong, DOH! I took them off again tonight, and figured I'd go thru the entire thing. I found the 2 lean cyls had the idle jets partially clogged. So that explains that. On the 2 rich cylindars I found that on one, the idle jet, and main jet were clogged completely, I'm not even sure how this one ran at all, but it did idle some. The other had a clean idle jet, and a completly clogged main jet. I figure what was happening, was when I opened the throttle the cyls would die completely, fouling the plugs. I haven't put the carbs back on yet, as I have to replace a couple of O-rings on the fuel screws. BTW all the fuel screws were set at 1.5 out, except one (cyl 4) that was 3.5 out, that was a lean cyl, but not as lean as cyl 3.

            Next time no "shortcuts" for me.
            Thanks again for all your help.
            Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

            That human beings can not bear too much reality, explains so much.

            Comment


              #21
              Put the carbs back on, and she is running MUCH better, or course she's also losing power every few seconds now I think I disturbed a wire to the coils when I put the carbs on this time. Guess it's time for 'fun with wiring'.

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