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**Anonymous** · 05-05-2003, 11:56 AM

One thing that wasn't mentioned in the Haynes manual for my '79 550L. When you re-fit the cover, make sure the tach gears mesh properly. You can turn the engine by hand and make sure the tach gears also turn smoothly -- otherwise, I would think it's pretty easy to damage the gear on either the camshaft or the tach. I got lucky and everything seemed to be okay.

Michael

**Hap Call** · 05-05-2003, 01:26 PM

It is easy. While you have the cover off, go ahead and check the valve clearance. It would only take about 10 minutes. If the valves are out of adjustment it could save you some repairs down the road adjusting them now.

Hap

**Anonymous** · 05-05-2003, 07:08 PM

Valve Cover gasket Leaking

I have the same problem on my bike... seems to be seeping oil... checked head bolt tightness, (not with a torque wrench, but I wasn't able to move ANY of them at all anyways) and all was fine... so I assume it must be the gasket... seems like a rubbery type gasket ...

The shop in town (Ottawa, Canada) said that I should be buying new Head bolts too... as once they're removed they're no good or something...

they want like $6 per bolt though, which would suck, as the gasket only costs $25 or so...

I had not envisioned any wierd problems like the tach gear ... thx for the info on that one

DAVE
86 GS750es (Canadian)

**focus frenzy** · 05-05-2003, 09:49 PM

on the 1000, the tach drive is in the head and is not affected by the cam cover, the gasket does not come with the cam end plugs, these are the rubber half circle plugs on the ends of the cams, you will need to get these separately, you don't want to replace the gasket and have those darn plugs start leaking a couple days latter!

there is not allot of room between the engine and frame, so it is a bit of a squeeze getting the cam cover out, make sure you pull the wiring harness up out of the way, and don't force it, on my 80 1000g I found that the cover will come out the right side easy-er than the left. (brake side)

**SqDancerLynn1** · 05-05-2003, 10:37 PM

Depending on the model It sometimes helps to remove the breather on the top of the valve cover for just a little extra clearance. MAKE sure that you remove all of the old gasket or the cover will break when you tighten the bolts.

**saaz** · 05-06-2003, 01:59 AM

It is a tight fit. On the 78GS1000 you have to remove the horns to get enough clearance. With care you can remove the cover a few times and not have to replace the gasket (mine is not a rubber one)

Luckily the shims do not need doing much one they are run in

**Anonymous** · 05-06-2003, 06:57 AM

Thanks!!!

Thank you all!!! I didn't even consider the replacement of those rubber end caps! Always best to work on something once and cover all bases!! So my plan is to do the replacement, & check valve clearance. Thanks for all the tips!!! It is so great to have the oportunity to tap into the experience of those who have walked down a path we are about to take.

MUCH APPRECIATED!!! Stephen

**redliner1973** · 05-06-2003, 07:42 AM

I just ordered the cam cover "D" gaskets for mine, from Ron Ayers, they were $2 a piece. :twisted:

**moto_dan** · 05-06-2003, 07:49 AM

Re: Valve Cover gasket Leaking

Originally posted by rongant

I have the same problem on my bike... seems to be seeping oil... checked head bolt tightness, (not with a torque wrench, but I wasn't able to move ANY of them at all anyways) and all was fine... so I assume it must be the gasket... seems like a rubbery type gasket ...

The shop in town (Ottawa, Canada) said that I should be buying new Head bolts too... as once they're removed they're no good or something...

they want like $6 per bolt though, which would suck, as the gasket only costs $25 or so...

I had not envisioned any wierd problems like the tach gear ... thx for the info on that one

DAVE
86 GS750es (Canadian)

The valve cover gasket on your bike is basically a large o- ring and over time can become hard, but the replacement is much easier than the old style gaskets. It is recommended that a thin film of RTV, Permatex, etc. be applied to the end plugs. I think your model also has an electronic tach so no gears to worry about. Sounds like you may be talking two different issues. Valve cover gasket and Head gasket. Bolts for the valve cover are reusable and do not need to be replaced when removed unless damaged.

**Anonymous** · 05-06-2003, 10:05 AM

I'm also going to change the cam cover gasket this week, will be doing valve adjustments while I have it open. I seriously doubt the last owner did it, he didn't seem like the type that did anything beyond changing oil. :roll:

I've got the main gasket and the eight rubber gaskets for the bolts (USD18 for the main gasket, USD8 for each of the bolt gaskets). Two of the holes have sheared threads, so they will have to be heli-coiled. Looking forward to getting this done though, it's been sweating some oil, and it doesn't look pretty after an hour or so.

**Anonymous** · 05-06-2003, 10:53 AM

Re: Valve Cover gasket Leaking

Originally posted by rongant

The shop in town (Ottawa, Canada) said that I should be buying new Head bolts too... as once they're removed they're no good or something...

they want like $6 per bolt though, which would suck, as the gasket only costs $25 or so...

Sounds odd... I took my engine apart complete, and the only bolts I replaced were the ones I stripped on the final drive cover. The head gasket can only be used once, of course, but the bolts should be fine unless they show obvious signs of wear.

Michael

**Anonymous** · 05-07-2003, 09:26 AM

cam cover Gasket is pretty simple the only thing to remember is .....pretty sure it applies to an 80 is that the front left and the right rear bolts are longer than the rest as for head bolts you should not have to replace them they did not make torque to yield bolts on our Zuks of vintage

**focus frenzy** · 05-07-2003, 11:03 PM

Originally posted by saaz

It is a tight fit. On the 78GS1000 you have to remove the horns to get enough clearance. With care you can remove the cover a few times and not have to replace the gasket (mine is not a rubber one)

Luckily the shims do not need doing much one they are run in

ooops, totaly forgot about the horns, mine came with high performance racing horns mounted up next to the headlight.

**Anonymous** · 05-07-2003, 11:33 PM

Leon:

That's a brilliant idea! I'm going to move my "freeway blaster" horn up there so it stops banging against my front fender. What do you mean by racing horns though? I'd probably run a racer off the track if he started honking at me. :?

Steve

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