Troubleshooting advice - 1983 GS550L

[TheCafeKid]

I would doubt that the signal generators are out of spec. How would you test that anyway? They are just magnets. My money is on the ignitor. If that is the case, ditch is and buy a Dyna S or the like. Its just as cheap as buying a USED (read: questionable) ignitor, and a NEW ignitor will be well over 250-300 bucks US. The Dyna would be about 120 or so, and you'd need to find an older timing pickup/rotor whatever they call it. The cutting out when hot is certainly indicative of this. I would suggest to your mech that he also run the bike till its good and hot and as SOON as it dies, pull the tank off and check the coils. They are sometimes subject to these same symptoms on thier way out as well.

[Kerry]

Dyna S

Thanks, TCK. I went to the Dynatek website, but can't find a listing for the Dyna S for an 83 GS550L. I see the DS3-2 is listed for "1982-83 Suzuki, 1000, 1100". Is that the right one?

[Big N daft]

Thanks, TCK. I went to the Dynatek website, but can't find a listing for the Dyna S for an 83 GS550L. I see the DS3-2 is listed for "1982-83 Suzuki, 1000, 1100". Is that the right one?

I don't know if Dyna do one for the 16 valve gs550.

As I said before, Boyer Bransden definately do a FULL new igintion for that bike. It includes new pick ups and base plate and igniter unit, you just need to fabricate a shim for the rotor arm which isn't difficult.

As far as CafeKid's question about testing the pickups goes, there are resistance readings that you would expect to see by putting an ohmeter across the windings I would suggest that if the you get roughly the same (very) low resistance across both of these coils but not an open or short circuit then there would be a reasonable assumption they were good.

Also you could try this, but I'm not sure whether this would work (according to my logic it should). If you remove one of the plugs and ground the electrode on the engine and then switch the ignition on and pass a magnet across one of the pickup coils, it may well result in a spark at the plug (if it doesn't try passing the magnet by the other pickup) if you do get a spark it proves that pick up is working.

I do concur with the Kid though, chances are it isn't the pick ups. As I said in the previous post there are static resistance tests that can be done on the Ingniter that are contained in the manuals. Before I started buying anything I'd pay the dollars that a manual costs and do those tests

[TheCafeKid]

I don't know if Dyna do one for the 16 valve gs550.

As I said before, Boyer Bransden definately do a FULL new igintion for that bike. It includes new pick ups and base plate and igniter unit, you just need to fabricate a shim for the rotor arm which isn't difficult.

As far as CafeKid's question about testing the pickups goes, there are resistance readings that you would expect to see by putting an ohmeter across the windings I would suggest that if the you get roughly the same (very) low resistance across both of these coils but not an open or short circuit then there would be a reasonable assumption they were good.

Also you could try this, but I'm not sure whether this would work (according to my logic it should). If you remove one of the plugs and ground the electrode on the engine and then switch the ignition on and pass a magnet across one of the pickup coils, it may well result in a spark at the plug (if it doesn't try passing the magnet by the other pickup) if you do get a spark it proves that pick up is working.

I do concur with the Kid though, chances are it isn't the pick ups. As I said in the previous post there are static resistance tests that can be done on the Ingniter that are contained in the manuals. Before I started buying anything I'd pay the dollars that a manual costs and do those tests

Best advice given by ANYONE in this thread All too often people want to just toss money and parts a problem untill they either run out of money, patience, or happen to stumble and accidentally fix the problem. These good old girls will require somewhat constant attention in one form or another, and there are FEW, if any, places left in the world that will actually work on them (and, do you really want some kid who's probably never even SEEN one of these things before working on your pride and joy?) so its best to get aclimated to doing the work yourself. This way, you not only develop a deeper appreciation for the bike, you KNOW how to make it work, and you KNOW the work was done right.

[Kerry]

Update

I've delayed in posting an update on my issues, as I was somewhat chastened by Big N Daft's and TCK's posts. I'm basically not a DIY kinda guy, and a strong case could be made that someone like me shouldn't own a bike like this. But I do and I at least want to be an informed consumer of professional mechanics' services, even if I am not comfortable doing the work myself.

The other reason for the delayed update is embarrassment: I had actually authorized the signal generator replacement before posting and then felt like an idiot when everyone told me it was a waste of money! Anyway, the new sig gen has (at least for now) fixed the "dying when hot" problem (but at a tremendous cost, to be sure!) Whether other components will lead to a new failure down the road remains to be seen...

Also, I have discovered that a longer warm-up at idle (say 4-5 minutes) seems to eliminate the warm-but-not-hot driveability problems that I reported earlier in this thread. My next step there is a valve clearance adjustment.

Bottom line - I'm lovin' this bike. For me, it's been a 25 year gap in riding: I rode in my late teens and early 20's (1977 Yamaha RD400) and then kids came along and I gave it up. Now, at 46 (!) I have the hankering to ride again and the GS (that I saw on CL for about $1000) caught my fancy for some reason.