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    New Handlebars Same old Problem

    Ok, I had this problem before. Every time I turn the handlebars the idle goes up, this was due to incorrect cable routing. Now I bought GP Touring bars with 28" width, 4" Pullback and 4" Rise. The same problem again, Was wondering if there is a way to route the cable so that this annoying problem would stop. Or maybe another cable length?

    #2
    Get a longer cable...all you'll need is an extra inch or two.

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      #3
      Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
      Get a longer cable...all you'll need is an extra inch or two.
      I would think this was a cable adjustment issue. If there isn't enough free play, no cable routing will be good enough. Something to check.

      If you've never done it: There should be adjusters at both ends, but I like to make this adjustment at the carb end. Turn the bars all the way to the stops in either direction to find out which side has the least play (or none) in the throttle grip. Tighten the cable until there is very little play with the bars turned to the tight side.
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        #4
        Don't turn the bars, just lean! ;-)

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          #5
          I have tired that, when i put the handle bars to which everside is the worst and then adjust from there, when i go back to center or close to it, the bike stalls out.

          How to i get a longer cable? can you just go to the hardware store and buy cable by the foot. Sorry if it sounds stupid but i'v never had to buy a non specific cable.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Balesce9932 View Post
            I have tired that, when i put the handle bars to which everside is the worst and then adjust from there, when i go back to center or close to it, the bike stalls out.
            Then you need to raise the idle with the throttle stop screw underneath.
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            Life is too short to ride an L.

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              #7
              You don't need a new cable, just reroute the one you have. If anything, you need a shorter cable since your new bars are lower than stock.

              Remove the gas tank and look at how the cable is routed. You might have to take the cable loose and reroute to gain a better path since your Daytona bars are lower than the origionals.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                #8
                So I can reroute the cable I have so that when I come up to the twist throttle its shorter?

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Balesce9932 View Post
                  So I can reroute the cable I have so that when I come up to the twist throttle its shorter?
                  The cable will never be shorter, you just need to find the best path so the cable is not binding when you turn the handlebars.

                  I’d venture to guess that something like 50% of GSR member have lower than stock bars on their bike(s), and only a small fraction have bought shorter cables. It can be done without binding the cables.
                  Last edited by Nessism; 06-20-2008, 05:29 PM.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                    #10
                    It seems easy enough, I'm not sure what it could be binding on though because I didnt take the whole cable off. Just up @ the twist throttle. once i reroute it how do i get more play in the twist throttle? is that the adjuster up @ the handle or down @ the carbs?

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      You don't need a new cable, just reroute the one you have. If anything, you need a shorter cable since your new bars are lower than stock.
                      I'm glad I'm not the only one that realized this. I had the exact same issue when I put new handlebars on. My solution was to pull the throttle cable "out" so it's tight from the carbs all along the frame to the triple tree (the way it is normally). Then I just have it sticking out a bit in the front. It's not elegant, but it sure works.

                      When I first put the new handlebars on, the cable was so pinched the bike ran at 4K RPM. Now I just have the tiniest increase in throttle opening when I turn to the right (full lock). The change doesn't even register on the tach, I can only hear it.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Balesce9932 View Post
                        It seems easy enough, I'm not sure what it could be binding on though because I didnt take the whole cable off. Just up @ the twist throttle. once i reroute it how do i get more play in the twist throttle? is that the adjuster up @ the handle or down @ the carbs?
                        Both. Adjust the top so it's a little bit out, but do the majority of the tightening/loosening at the carbs.

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                          #13
                          I had the same issue with my GS when I went to shorter handlebars. I had to pull the tank and reroute the cable and play with the adjustment. It took a couple of trys but it works great now.

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                            #14
                            Problem fixed, handlebars look awesome !!! Thanks alot to everyone who gave advice. The GS Resources Is The best Site on the web! hands down

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