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Help with dyna s ignition on 1977 gs750

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    Help with dyna s ignition on 1977 gs750

    I hope some can help me I just purchased a dyna s ignition for my 77 gs750 and can't get the darn thing to time right.Sat on the phone on hold with tech asst. for over an hour with no response. timing instruction not to clear cut. I worked on cars for over 15 year but this thing is driving me crazy. i had the thing installed in less than a hour but can't get the thing to run right anyone help would be great Thanks in advance

    #2
    Does it run at all?

    EDIT: Deleted this instruction since the one I detailed below is clearer.


    Hope this helps and good luck.
    Last edited by Nessism; 06-20-2008, 11:14 PM.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      more info

      it runs at times but just won't run right. the directions said to use the washer only with newer models. I also said to hook up white to white black to black and the 12 volt wire to the orange wire of the coils. My problem is trying to figure out which way the plate goes at the start and which marks to start with and which marks to set at in both 1-4 and 2-3

      Comment


        #4
        I have a Dyna III installed on mine and the tricky part about installing mine was that I had to hold the mechanical advance unit fully to the right as I turned the engine with a wrench and lined up the timing marks, I dont know if this is required with the dyna s but if it is, then its possible you overlooked this step.

        Comment


          #5
          timing marks

          i guess i'm having trouble on which marks that should be used.

          Comment


            #6
            Put test light in WHITE wire firing 1-4 coil.

            Turn the engine over with a 19mm wrench.

            Test light should illuminate when the 1-4 F mark aligns with the mark on the crankcase.


            Once you have this working, turn the engine over more until you find the mark 1/2 inch to the right of the 1-4F mark. This is the firing point when the centrifugal advance is in full advance.

            Now grab the black rotor and twist it, the light should turn on when the rotor gets to the end of it's travel. Adjust as necessary.

            If the rotor does not rotate freely, or pulls out and in easily, you need to adjust the end float on the rotor. That is what the washer is for (only it's not always the proper thickness, at least it wasn't on my bike).

            Hope this helps.
            Last edited by Nessism; 06-20-2008, 11:11 PM.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by bplubin View Post
              i guess i'm having trouble on which marks that should be used.

              The mark you need to align is on the side of the mechanical
              advance assembly. |F1 is the static timing mark. Align the mark (|) with the arrow or mark on the engine case. If your bike does not have an engine case mark (and some dont), the case mark is the left edge of the 12 oclock breaker plate hold down screw head.

              Connect a continuity light to the left crank trigger and rotate the breaker plate until the ight flashes on to indicate correct alignment of the trigger and rotor.

              Ea
              Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

              I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

              Comment


                #8
                Just in case:

                Left crank trigger, left coil and spark plugs 1,4.

                Right crank trigger, right coil and spark plugs 2,3.


                Earl
                Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Call Raymond at Dynatek at 800-928-3962 ext 4172
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Go Mifune View Post
                    I have a Dyna III installed on mine and the tricky part about installing mine was that I had to hold the mechanical advance unit fully to the right as I turned the engine with a wrench and lined up the timing marks, I dont know if this is required with the dyna s but if it is, then its possible you overlooked this step.
                    Another thing to remember is that this is an ELECTRONIC ignition. So in order for it to work properly you need a well charged battery.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      new info

                      well i tried several things that everyone was very helpful and found that the rotor is sticking on the shaft. When i took it apart originally i found that the tabs at the end of the shaft were either worn off or stripped off. I didn't thing nothing of it. But after using all the steps everyone had stated found the rotor sticking at times i.e when in full advanced rotor was not turn the light back out quickly was staying on and m not move to turn back off. So i'm going to go to the recycle yard this morning and see if they have one I HOPE

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Fixed at last!!!!!!

                        Got back from the recycle yard found slightly rusty but operational mechanical advance . installed it and set the time. Started right up and ran great Someone that had the bike before me removed the two stops at the end of the mechanical advance and also found i was tightening too tight. Thanks for all the help.

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