Clutch Spring bolt....

[gadang]

I snapped it off when tightening. I tried to search for a thread but could not find one.

After I get the stud out should I order a new bolt from Bikebandit or do you think I can find one at the hardware store?

Please tell me some one has done this before...:-?

Thanks!

[chef1366]

One of the six clutch spring bolts?
I'd get one from Suzuki.
Check here Part number 01500-06167

[gadang]

Yes one of the six. I think I will replace them all since I could have twisted them all and weakened them....darn cheap torque wrench!

Then part number you gave me is for a fuel cooler? They have them on bikebandit's website from the schematic.

thanks for your help!

[gadang]

Also...I am assuming I must use and Easy Out tool to get this out? Or does anyone have a better/easier way?

Thanks again for your help

[psyguy]

you can buy those bolts from a hardware place (that sells metric stuff), either a regular steel-bolt but a high-tensile-steel would be better, no need to buy oem
as for the size its a M6x1.0pitch
not sure of the length, take one out and measure
replace them all, they are old

depending on where the bolt snapped you may be able to use long nose pliers to get it out

[Dogma]

you can buy those bolts from a hardware place (that sells metric stuff), either a regular steel-bolt but a high-tensile-steel would be better, no need to buy oem
as for the size its a M6x1.0pitch
not sure of the length, take one out and measure
replace them all, they are old

depending on where the bolt snapped you may be able to use long nose pliers to get it out

My Clymer manual mentioned that these have a special temper on them. I dunno if they're hard or soft or what. My impression is that they felt soft.

[gadang]

Do you need to have soft or hard? I am not sure about tempers and why you would want something soft are weak, unless it has something to do with flexibility or something like that.

Yes I would say they were soft alright....

[80GS750]

hey gadang, if you get that bike on the road we are having a midwest meet on the 29th for a ride down to missouri and back.......

[Dogma]

Do you need to have soft or hard? I am not sure about tempers and why you would want something soft are weak, unless it has something to do with flexibility or something like that.

Yes I would say they were soft alright....

Usually when you leave a piece soft, you're trying to prevent brittle or fatigue failures, or some kind of failure in the mating part. In this case, the only thing that makes sense to me is that the bolts are intentionally designed to break before stripping the aluminum clutch basket. A thread repair on the clutch basket might weaken it, and would probably unbalance it.

If psyguy has had satisfactory results with hard bolts from a hardware store, then I guess it can work. In my case, I was going to be ordering springs anyway, so I bought the dirt cheap OEM screws too. Just playing it safe.

I just wanted to make sure you knew about the warning in the (non-factory) service manual.

[bonanzadave]

Also...I am assuming I must use and Easy Out tool to get this out? Or does anyone have a better/easier way?

Have you got the inner hub off to see if you can get on it with a vice grip ?

[Junkie]

When I did a similar thing on my EX250 I just pulled off the cover and the rest of the bolt was just chilling in there, and came out easily. I replaced ALL of the bolts with the same hardware store piece, to make sure that it stayed balanced. Didn't have any problems with it, but I can't make any assurances that you won't.

If you're lucky, it'll come right out without any effort - it probably broke right at the head, so it may just require a pair of pliers or even fingers.

[gadang]

Nope it is recessed in the hole maybe a thread or two. I can't get a hold of it with anything. Has anyone ever been able to use and easy out or anything else to get it out?

[psyguy]

yup, an ezyout would be appropriate

neither my suzuki nor haynes mention anything special about those bolts
i used high-tensile-steel bolts for a piece of mind
high-tensile means they are not brittle but "elastic", maybe thats what clymer calls for?

ALL of the oem bolts in my case had a crack just under the head so i assume the oem is just a mild-steel bolt as high-tensile bolts shouldnt crack like that - they would strip the threads in the alu basket first

[chef1366]

That's the right part number. Don't know why it's called that.

[bwringer]

You might be encountering a part number conflict related to BikeBandit's goofy proprietary numbering system. If you punch in a Suzuki part number, make sure you are on the right BikeBandit page.


A left-handed drill bit would very likely spin that old bolt stub right out. I got a set of these for about $5 a while back, and they are extremely handy -- you start drilling (in reverse), and they usually catch at some point and spin the fastener out.

I detest EZ-outs, and do not allow them in my garage or anywhere near anything I care about.