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    #16
    EZ-out is anything but.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #17
      I got it out!!! I used the left handed drill bits...man those things are cool. And you wouldn't believe how many hardware stores had no idea what I was asking for. I knew harbor freight had them so I got them and it was out in 5 mins...bad a$$!

      As for the bolts I spoke with the dealer and they stated that the bolts are "tighten to yield"?? Which he said is that they are made to give...IDK....I am just going to order the OEM part and get my bike back together!

      Thanks so much you guys!
      GSR Rules!

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        #18
        Originally posted by gadang View Post
        As for the bolts I spoke with the dealer and they stated that the bolts are "tighten to yield"?? Which he said is that they are made to give...
        It's tragic when motorcycle dealers start smoking crack. This is incorrect. They're just bolts.

        The trouble is that the torque spec is very low, and it's very difficult to find a torque wrench that is at all accurate in this range. You can only really trust a torque wrench in the middle of its range.

        I simply install clutch bolts by hand and use an educated wrist to torque them.
        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
        Eat more venison.

        Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

        Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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        Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

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          #19
          I tighten them just "snug"
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #20
            One thing no one here has mentioned yet is that you will need a WASHER also if you don't go with an OEM bolt. I like factory bolts as they are the CORRECT ones every time! And the Suzuki clutch bolts come WITH the washer as an integral part! Ray.

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              #21
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              I tighten them just "snug"
              I guarantee that I will only tighten them "snug" for sure...the bad part is that I did that but got this "torque" thing in my head....I will trust my instincts next time!

              Live and Learn....if I don't learn then I need to quit wrenchin!

              I did go ahead and order the bolts and washers because I could not find washers that fit properly. I did not want them to shift and get cock eyed on the bolt. Just me being a little cautious since I screwed up the first time.

              Thanks again everyone!!

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                #22
                Originally posted by gadang View Post
                I got it out!!! I used the left handed drill bits...man those things are cool. And you wouldn't believe how many hardware stores had no idea what I was asking for. I knew harbor freight had them so I got them and it was out in 5 mins...bad a$$!

                As for the bolts I spoke with the dealer and they stated that the bolts are "tighten to yield"?? Which he said is that they are made to give...IDK....I am just going to order the OEM part and get my bike back together!

                Thanks so much you guys!
                GSR Rules!
                Tighten to yield is what most any experienced mechanic does when not using a torque wrench. The yield strength of a material is the load under which any further load will cause permanent deformation. I bolt tightened to this level is usually considered fully tightened. If you look at a stress/strain chart, this is where the curve flattens out for most steels. An experienced mechanic can hit this point with good accuracy. This is the "calibrated wrist". It's basically the point where turning the wrench further does not increase torque feedback to the wrench. Just a bit further is that sickening stripped out feeling.
                Dogma
                --
                O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

                Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

                --
                '80 GS850 GLT
                '80 GS1000 GT
                '01 ZRX1200R

                How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

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                  #23
                  I got it back together!! YES! It runs good. The one thing I noticed is that sometimes...not every time, I let the clutch out and it has a "surging" feeling. Is that a "steels" thing? It does not do it when I hold the brake and hit the friction zone just when I let it out to start moving..otherwise it is great...and it has not slipped once.

                  Thanks again!

                  Oh and here it is with the SuperBike bars on it. I also found some original front turn signals...just need to get them hooked up..but it looks better than the little ones that you can still see.


                  Last edited by Guest; 06-30-2008, 07:22 PM.

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                    #24
                    that 4-blinkers setup is extra cool
                    leave it like that!
                    GS850GT

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