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    #16
    Another option if you don't feel like leaving the house and need to get a seriously stuck bolt out, using stuff you might have sitting around:

    You know those screwdrivers that have the interchangable tips? The ones where you remove the shaft of the screwdriver in order to swap between some. Well, pull out the shaft. Pull out the bit you don't want to use. Use a fairly large allen wrench (8mm is it? I always just find one that works) to turn the shaft. It allows you to provide lots of force along the axis of the screw, and also far more torque than you should ever need in order to remove a screw.

    Now, I'm not saying that it's as good as an impact driver, but I'm a cheap lazy bastard sometimes and haven't gotten around to buying one. It works pretty well.

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      #17
      The other thing you can do is take that 1/4 hex shaft bit (you know, the removable kind) and use it in a 1/4" socket and socket driver or ratchet. This has worked for me several times however it is a bit of a pain to hold everything together long enough to get the screw to break free.
      I bought 2 impact drivers from Harbor Freight, broke both in a matter of minutes and was pi$$ed at myself for spending the same amount on junk as I did for a decent quality driver from an auto parts store. 3rd time's a charm, right?

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        #18
        ^it's hard to apply proper pressure to the screw doing that, though. It works if you have excellent bite and a heavy hand to hold over the ratchet.

        I just checked, for those interested, and the impact driver at Sears is $25. Very nice looking piece, too...I was tempted to replace my harbor freight and PM tools with it haha.

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          #19
          Originally posted by earlfor View Post
          Those phillips screws on the GS are Japanese phillips which are not the same configuration as standard phillips. If you are stripping screw heads, it is because you are using the wrong bits. No impact driver I know of comes with the correct phillips bits for our use. Use the right tool and life gets easier. LOL

          Earl
          Where do I find the correct bits, can't find any that fit anything other than precision screws on the good ol internets.

          oh well each time I take one out it's getting replaced with hex or allen head screw that pushing down and turning without slipping crap. Glad japan wised up and is using the good stuff now.

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            #20
            Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
            In searching various things I see a lot of the same commentary on stripped phillips head screws...and stripped/chipped screws in general. An impact driver is your friend, fellows.



            Don't attempt to "break" those screws loose by the twist of a hand. When it comes to screws decades old that have likely never been turned after installation, always break them with an impact driver. It will save your screws, and it will save a portion of your sanity.

            $6 at harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37530
            The 6 dollar HF special was the first one I bought. Lasted one afternoon. Went to Sears Hardware and bought an 18 dollar one. Has lasted the equivalent of 10 times that long, equivalent because the first one made it almost all the way thru stripping one bike down to components, and the 2nd one has lasted me thru a lot of other deconstruction and/or disassembly tasks.

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              #21
              Originally posted by earlfor View Post
              Those phillips screws on the GS are Japanese phillips which are not the same configuration as standard phillips. If you are stripping screw heads, it is because you are using the wrong bits. No impact driver I know of comes with the correct phillips bits for our use. Use the right tool and life gets easier. LOL

              Earl
              Earl, I worked for Nissan 4 years before I went to Mercedes. Noone atNissan ever mentioned a "special" Asian philips screw driver or bits. Is this like a bearing adjuster? My muffler bearings do need adjusting!

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                #22
                Japan does use a different cross head design with very different pitches than what US/Euro manufacturers use. It's easy to make a standard phillips head driver work with a healthy Japanese screw head, but these old pieces are a bit fickle. You can find a lot of information online about the differences.

                Also, snap-on sells a japanese cross head bit and adapters for impact drivers and such. They're the only ones I know of who sell a Japanese bit...outside of Japanese manufacturers and they're a bit obscure in locating.

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                  #23
                  boy i sure wish i would have known about one of these before i spent all day drilling out my bolts.lol but now that i know i do believe im heading out now to get me one.
                  I didnt do it I swear !!

                  --------------------------
                  http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture003.jpg 1982 GS850G

                  http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...n1/Picture.jpg 1980 GS1100L

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                    #24
                    (First Post!)

                    The JIS Philips head does exist, it's not on par with k'niffna pins, headlamp coolant or anything like that, it's real. Not really required unless the screws have been abused by a PO or have near 30years of seize to them. Like on some of the bikes we buy...

                    More info here:
                    ( http://www.ikaswebshop.com/jisphilips.html )

                    I've used an (hand) impact driver for years, and never, ever stripped a nut with one. Used properly, they are far gentler on the hardware, and will save you much, much frustration. I just used one this morning to take off the carbs boots and stator cover off of the '78 750E I just bought. I do not know how I would have gotten those SOB carb boot bolts out of the head without it. (And I'm super glad I bought replacements from Mr. Barr, because while still "good" they are not going back in) If you use the right bit, preload the tool rotationally and tension wise, and aren't afraid to give it a good whack, you'll never strip a non-stripped screw, and you will save a lot of time fighting stuck hardware. Even a stripped screw can usually be caught by tapping in the next size bit. Drilling is far from a timesaver.

                    One caveat though, I had to buy a new impact driver last weekend because mine had apparently grown legs, and it was a nightmare trying to find one. My first step was Sears (two of them) and they both claimed not to have one. Two autoparts stores (VIP, Carquest), and Lowe's later, I was pulling my hair out. I got home to search online for "impact driver" in case I was using an outdated term and the first thing that came up was Sears' Craftsman Impact Driver. I clicked the link, checked local availability, and then 20 minutes later went and picked it up from the "Merchandise Pickup" desk at the first Sears I'd been to earlier! Wasted two hours because of lack of help. As useful tool salesmen are becoming harder to come by, use the web tools first!

                    (Oh, and that chrome HF job I remember seeing in other packaging several times (CAP, Autozone, etc), and its always been junk. You want a impact grade case to take the beating that you're going to put on the end, and yes, even the craftsman will be dimpled up after a morning's use

                    Shaughn
                    Last edited by Guest; 06-21-2008, 07:12 PM.

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                      #25
                      Robert Barr's page also covers this, " http://cycleorings.com/phillips.html ".
                      Through there I ordered the JIS bits from RJR, arrived in about 4 days. For some reason I thought I was getting equivalents of #1-3, but got #0-2. My fault for misreading. " http://www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_ite...m?subcat_ID=89 "

                      Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
                      Also, snap-on sells a japanese cross head bit and adapters for impact drivers and such. They're the only ones I know of who sell a Japanese bit...outside of Japanese manufacturers and they're a bit obscure in locating.

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                        #26
                        I have a $12.00 Harbor Freight and it successfully removed every one on my bike for allen head replacement.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by PAULYBOY View Post
                          Earl, I worked for Nissan 4 years before I went to Mercedes. Noone atNissan ever mentioned a "special" Asian philips screw driver or bits. Is this like a bearing adjuster? My muffler bearings do need adjusting!
                          Both of these pages will show you what Earl is talking about.





                          .

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                            #28
                            thanks????????

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
                              if you don't want it to break spend some money on a Craftsman (free replacement) or buy a snap-on or something. I buy the cheap ones because spending $12 a year is acceptable to me (actually the last one I bought has lasted since 2002).
                              I have a Craftsman. Works great.
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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