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Lucas Carb Cleaner
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GS1100G
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twistedwankel
Originally posted by GS1100G View Postsounds like a plan the test will be in the morning when I go to work... that is when it throws a temper tantrum, i don't think my bike is a morning bike like me i hate mornings
I used Seafoam recently with great success but/and it loosened up rust so fine it went thru the petcock screen and got into the carb bowls. Also the drain bolts on my carbs were rusted on the tips and when I really got on it lowering the gas level it would suck crude into the carb and the bike would run rough at 3-4k but idled great and under full throttle was okay. Once I put a filter between the tank and the carbs, replaced the rusty drain bolts and flushed the bowls using the prime setting 3 times into a white plastic cap...all is now well. Didn't have to rebuild the carbs and that was 2000mi ago Even a pro GSer said I didn't need to with kit in hand.
Got the valves adjusted, carbs synched and will leave the pre filter on to keep any more rust from getting into the carbs. The things one learns the hard way will always stay with us.
Good luck in the morning.
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GS1100G
well i ran a 32 oz bottle through my explorer at one time and it helped tremensly... but bike engines are a little more high preformance and tighter specs... so i thought it would effect the engine differently...
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Originally posted by doctorgonzo View PostOn some level it probably did what it's supposed to do. It broke some deposits loose which then clogged the carb.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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GS1100G
I was afraid someone would say that, I am really anal when it comes to my carbs so to clean them means taking each one apart setting aside the O-rings and scrub them with cleaner ( kerosine with hi-test fuel) cuts shat pretty good, and don't forget the good ol' spray cleaner in a can... it means 4+ hours of work PER carb... Quality time with Mr.Toothbrush
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by GS1100G View PostI was afraid someone would say that, I am really anal when it comes to my carbs so to clean them means taking each one apart setting aside the O-rings and scrub them with cleaner ( kerosine with hi-test fuel) cuts shat pretty good, and don't forget the good ol' spray cleaner in a can... it means 4+ hours of work PER carb... Quality time with Mr.Toothbrush
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GS1100G
I will look it up anything is better than what I am doing now... as long as I get the same quality finish, I will spend the time if it is necssary and worth it... but if it makes my life easier I am all for it!!!
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by GS1100G View PostI will look it up anything is better than what I am doing now... as long as I get the same quality finish, I will spend the time if it is necssary and worth it... but if it makes my life easier I am all for it!!!
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GS1100G
do they come up pretty and shiny??? like new??? as far as dipping goes start at 30 min and work yer way up from there i'm up for as long as it takes... even if it is 16 hours of work plus dip time.
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by GS1100G View Postdo they come up pretty and shiny??? like new??? as far as dipping goes start at 30 min and work yer way up from there i'm up for as long as it takes... even if it is 16 hours of work plus dip time.
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If there is no oxidation they will be as clean as you've ever seen them. Especially in the important parts like the inner ports.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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GS1100G
sounds good, but before I do all the carb teardown, I hope my simple fix of draining the pans and I saw the fuel switch was on reserve (it is now in the on position) solves the problem...
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mighty13d
whatever you do, don't forget an in-line filter between the tank and the carbs... I know a lot of people don't run them, but if anything gets in the tanks, it's better to catch it then let it run right into your bowls (if there isn't screens above your needle valves, if there is, then it will clog them up right there!)
Don't forget to make sure that if you do get a filter, get one that is for gravity fed engines, not one that is meant to have a fuel pump pushing through it.
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Originally posted by GS1100G View Postdo they come up pretty and shiny??? like new???
That is after about 12 hours in the 'dip'. The carbs were last used in December, and the bike was parked for other reasons, which necessitated carb removal, therefore, drainage. They did not look too bad, so I only dipped them for 12 hours. We will find out later this week how well that worked.
As TheCafeKid and mriddle have noted, my polishing wheel is just a bit too close to my work bench. Here is what tends to happen:
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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mighty13d
HOLY CRAP Steve... those look great. My GS just got her first bath that involved SimpleGreen and a brush.. she looks great. I can't wait until I get some spare time and start polishing like you have already!
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