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Lucas Carb Cleaner

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS1100G
  • Start date Start date
GS1100G said:
I was afraid someone would say that, I am really anal when it comes to my carbs so to clean them means taking each one apart setting aside the O-rings and scrub them with cleaner ( kerosine with hi-test fuel) cuts shat pretty good, and don't forget the good ol' spray cleaner in a can... it means 4+ hours of work PER carb... Quality time with Mr.Toothbrush
Click to expand...

Buy a can of Berrymans carb dip.
 
I will look it up anything is better than what I am doing now... as long as I get the same quality finish, I will spend the time if it is necssary and worth it... but if it makes my life easier I am all for it!!!
 
GS1100G said:
I will look it up anything is better than what I am doing now... as long as I get the same quality finish, I will spend the time if it is necssary and worth it... but if it makes my life easier I am all for it!!!
Click to expand...

It's good stuff. Works for ALL metal parts. Autozone carrys it. There is some controversy on how long to dip. Can says 30 minutes, some on here dip for 24 hours, some say that can damage internal rubber on the throttle assembly. I dipped mine 2 hours.
 
do they come up pretty and shiny??? like new??? as far as dipping goes start at 30 min and work yer way up from there i'm up for as long as it takes... even if it is 16 hours of work plus dip time.
 
GS1100G said:
do they come up pretty and shiny??? like new??? as far as dipping goes start at 30 min and work yer way up from there i'm up for as long as it takes... even if it is 16 hours of work plus dip time.
Click to expand...

Yeah, they are pretty clean when they come out. ALL o-rings, etc... have to be removed because it will disintegrate them. It's excellent for the small bits like jets and is good for cleaning out all the small internal passages in the carb.
 
If there is no oxidation they will be as clean as you've ever seen them. Especially in the important parts like the inner ports.
 
sounds good, but before I do all the carb teardown, I hope my simple fix of draining the pans and I saw the fuel switch was on reserve (it is now in the on position) solves the problem...
 
whatever you do, don't forget an in-line filter between the tank and the carbs... I know a lot of people don't run them, but if anything gets in the tanks, it's better to catch it then let it run right into your bowls (if there isn't screens above your needle valves, if there is, then it will clog them up right there!)

Don't forget to make sure that if you do get a filter, get one that is for gravity fed engines, not one that is meant to have a fuel pump pushing through it.
 
GS1100G said:
do they come up pretty and shiny??? like new???
Click to expand...
OK, you tell me ... are they clean and shiny?
IMG_7315.jpg


IMG_7321.jpg


That is after about 12 hours in the 'dip'. The carbs were last used in December, and the bike was parked for other reasons, which necessitated carb removal, therefore, drainage. They did not look too bad, so I only dipped them for 12 hours. We will find out later this week how well that worked.

As TheCafeKid and mriddle have noted, my polishing wheel is just a bit too close to my work bench. Here is what tends to happen:
IMG_7323.jpg
 
HOLY CRAP Steve... those look great. My GS just got her first bath that involved SimpleGreen and a brush.. she looks great. I can't wait until I get some spare time and start polishing like you have already!
 
OOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooo AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH..... shiney... pretty colors... can I have those??? I don't use a polishing wheel but they don't have dirt on them when I am done... And neither does those... how much is this carb dip
 
I paid 20 bucks for a can (it's in a gallon paint can) but have seen others talk about getting it for less.
 
Be VERY careful with Simple Green, it doesn't like aluminum and some paints.

BTW, valves do not "rattle" due to low octane fuel, you are hearing detonation due to incorrect timing or carbon build up, which raises compression.
The noise is an early combustion (pre-ignition) or the fuel ignites too quickly and the rods take a beating.
Fix the problem or you will need higher and higher octane fuel.

The reason for higher octane is to slow the combustion process so you can use higher compression in order to extract more energy (power) from the fuel available. gas has a finite # of BTUs available, low compression gets some of it, higher compression extracts more, but they must boost the octane to slow the combustion to prevent detonation.
 
Zook said:
Be VERY careful with Simple Green, it doesn't like aluminum and some paints.
Click to expand...


Never heard that about Simple Green before. I sprayed it down all nice and wet at the car wash, then liberally applied the Simple Green, scrubbed it down and took my merry little time rinsing it off making sure that I got everything over several times so I didn't have any left over suds in some crevasse. I'll keep an eye on it though. It did make my bike smell really nice!
 
well with the valve "problem" I am not going to tare down the bike so i can run cheaper fuel, I will just have to run a higher octane fuel... I will not rebuild until it hates 92 the we will fix said problem
 
Too tight valves can burn up. If it's a new to you bike, valve adjustment should be near the top of the "to do" list. It's really not that bad or expensive. Less than 50 bucks (buying gaskets, shims, etc...) and can be done in an afternoon even by a first timer.
 
If you want to decarbonize the combustion chambers Put some Seafoam in the tank-follow directions!
The stuff really does work.
 
GS1100G said:
well with the valve "problem" I am not going to tare down the bike so i can run cheaper fuel, I will just have to run a higher octane fuel... I will not rebuild until it hates 92 the we will fix said problem
Click to expand...


Running higher octane than needed can carbon up your heads and valves to the point where performance is lost as well as risking damaging your engine. It's not about being a cheapskate on fuel, it's about the compression to fuel octane rating needed for your specific engine.

Once you've carboned up the heads and valves you will hear the "87 octane fuel knock" as the carbon is causing predetonation to happen to the faster burning lower octane fuels than slower burning higher octane fuel. You will be spending more money and time if you burn a valve or worse from running 92+ octane. One last point on 92 octane or any top octane your gas station sells, they don't move it fast enough for it not be more likely stale than the lower octane fuels they sell.

A little gasoline factoid:
Due to the poor condition and quality of gas over the years the old urban myth was born that if you ran a tank of the "good" gas (high octane = Hi-Test, Ethyl) you would clear out all of those problems you were experiencing from being cheap and using the "regular" gas. In truth the early hi-test/ethyl gasolines had the only additives to help your engine, they were actually closer to the octane stated and old engines with higher compression that required lead for the heads actually got that lead proportioned correctly in hi-test whereas in "regular" it was not so true. Gas companies have short cut the low end fuels for decades and still do in states like here in Ohio where there aren't any purity laws that hold them to their claimed octane. Indiana has this law and 87 is 87 not 85 or less.

The thing that a lot folks don't know is that oil companies don't use "pigs" any more to separate the types of fuels they are piping around the country. I have found that a lot of folks think that gasoline is shipped by truck... wrong, only from the local depot to the station. It is piped all around the country. They used to put a "pig" in the pipe which is basically a solid plug that is pushed through the pipes by the pump pressures between fuel types. So you had say diesel on one side of the "pig" and gasoline on the other side. Now they don't do that they let the fuels mix at the point where they meet. This is a tramp mix that is supposed to go to places like power plants and such to be burned where it won't matter. I have my doubts that this is always practiced and that some of this tramp fuel is getting into the supply chain. Add poor in-ground tank maintenance, ethanol and you get some pretty crappy gas. The fuel in the bottoms of these tanks is not good and don't trust that filter in the pump as it doesn't get the service it needs often enough. Filling up when the delivery truck is there stirring up that dredge in the bottom of the tank is like playing Russian roulette that crud won't get into your tank.
 
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