Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

[Dave_A]

A while back, I had trouble with the engine dying in high-load operation (i.e. freeway speed). I solved this by aquiring a lid for my airbox, and a new air filter. However, I now have 2 new issues...

Issue #1: Idle

It idles normally on start up, but settles in at around 2500-3000RPM after running a while. Performance is good (imho... No more dying on the freeway, and it moves pretty fast), and the idle doesn't seem to be causing any other trouble...

Issue #2: Wierd metallic noise at high revs

It sounds something like 'keys vibrating on a metal tabletop', or 'a jackhammer on concrete, heard from a ways away'. Only happens at high revs (usually after a sudden change), upshifting or speeding back up eliminates it. I've been told it's either valve trouble or the cam chain... Is this right?

Issue #3: Exhaust leak

Visible if there's enough condensation in the pipes to create steam. The steam blows out of the underside of the right-hand (brake-side) pipe, right around the foot pegs... Is there an easy way to plug this???

[Anonymous]

#3
The leak is normal, you should have a hole in that area on both sides.

#1
I have this too, it helps a bit if you set your idle down to 1000 RPM after running for a while. This started to happen to me after pulling the carbs and removing the pilot screw. At that point I replaced the pilot screws and put the whole lot back in and syncd the carbs. (they started out 3/4 of a turn further open than specified in manual so I put them back in that way)

Did you do something like this?

Steve

[Dave_A]

#3
#1
I have this too, it helps a bit if you set your idle down to 1000 RPM after running for a while. This started to happen to me after pulling the carbs and removing the pilot screw. At that point I replaced the pilot screws and put the whole lot back in and syncd the carbs. (they started out 3/4 of a turn further open than specified in manual so I put them back in that way)

Did you do something like this?

Steve

I gave the carbs a cursory cleaning when I got the bike (took them apart as far as possible without messing with the adjustment screws, then cleaned with B-12 carb cleaner)...

They have not been synched since I owned the bike (never tried, this is my first carbed vehicle of any kind (My cars have been EFI vehicles), and I don't know the maintanance history as I got it on auction from the Salvation Army.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Hay I got my gs850 from a guy who got it from Salvation Army auction too

[Dark Jedi]

Re: Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

A while back, I had trouble with the engine dying in high-load operation (i.e. freeway speed). I solved this by aquiring a lid for my airbox, and a new air filter. However, I now have 2 new issues...

The lid.... The airbox has a lid....?

You have GOT to be kidding. I have been banging my head against the exact same problem for months, and it may just be a freaking lid?????

8O

[Anonymous]

Re: Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

Issue #2: Wierd metallic noise at high revs

It sounds something like 'keys vibrating on a metal tabletop', or 'a jackhammer on concrete, heard from a ways away'. Only happens at high revs (usually after a sudden change), upshifting or speeding back up eliminates it. I've been told it's either valve trouble or the cam chain... Is this right?

Does the noise change pitch with a change in engine speed? Where does the noise sound like it's coming from?

I had a problem with a fixed-pitch noise. Wouldn't make the noise when it was idling, but anything above idle it would start to rattle. The noise sounded like it was coming from the gearbox. I dismantled the clutch and found there were several loose springs on the clutch basket. Haven't had a chance to install the new basket yet, but apparently this is a common problem with GS bikes.

Michael

[Anonymous]

Dark Jedi:
I think people remove the lid when they do a Stage 1 jet kit.

Steve

[Dark Jedi]

Dark Jedi:
I think people remove the lid when they do a Stage 1 jet kit.

Steve

Ahh. No stage1 on this puppy that I can tell. I've had the carbs apart a couple of times trying to figure out why they refuse to tune to factory spec.... :?

Airbox cover inbound. Gonna check the manifold o-rings while I am poking around. Cheap and relatively easy to replace since the carbs are already out.

[Dave_A]

Re: Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

Issue #2: Wierd metallic noise at high revs

It sounds something like 'keys vibrating on a metal tabletop', or 'a jackhammer on concrete, heard from a ways away'. Only happens at high revs (usually after a sudden change), upshifting or speeding back up eliminates it. I've been told it's either valve trouble or the cam chain... Is this right?

Does the noise change pitch with a change in engine speed? Where does the noise sound like it's coming from?

I had a problem with a fixed-pitch noise. Wouldn't make the noise when it was idling, but anything above idle it would start to rattle. The noise sounded like it was coming from the gearbox. I dismantled the clutch and found there were several loose springs on the clutch basket. Haven't had a chance to install the new basket yet, but apparently this is a common problem with GS bikes.

Michael

Nope, it's a fixed pitch, fixed volume rattle/peening noise... At first I thought it was just my keys (i have a bunch on the ring with the bike key) rattling against the handlebars. Then I picked them up while riding, and still heard the noise... Sounds like, well, keys rattling, or someone using a jackhammer (but quieter. about the same volume as the engine, but a little louder)... It comes and goes, usually un-doing whatever change in speed I just did, or shifting to a higher gear eliminates it.

My clutch basket is not the problem, as I just tightened everything last year when I took it apart to inspect the clutch (as part of 're activating' the bike after I got it)...

[Anonymous]

If you don't want to hear your keys rattling you can put a little patch of black duct tape one you handle bar. Grey duct tape may look a little out of place.

Steve

[Anonymous]

Re: Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

Nope, it's a fixed pitch, fixed volume rattle/peening noise... At first I thought it was just my keys (i have a bunch on the ring with the bike key) rattling against the handlebars. Then I picked them up while riding, and still heard the noise... Sounds like, well, keys rattling, or someone using a jackhammer (but quieter. about the same volume as the engine, but a little louder)... It comes and goes, usually un-doing whatever change in speed I just did, or shifting to a higher gear eliminates it.

My clutch basket is not the problem, as I just tightened everything last year when I took it apart to inspect the clutch (as part of 're activating' the bike after I got it)...

And I thought I was just going crazy. I've got the exact same noise in my bike - haven't been able to figure it out either...I thought I might figure it out once I got the cam cover off, but since you're already there and none the wiser I guess the problem is rooted somewhere else :?

[redliner1973]

From what your describing, especially with the change in RPM, maybe the cam chain phenolics are grooved to much and worn out, and your tensioner is not taking up the excess slack. :twisted:

[nabrams]

Regarding #1:
I had this problem. The way I solved it was as follows:

1. Rode the bike for at least a half hour to get the engine warmed up real well (bike was idling high).
2. Adjusted idle screw so that bike was idling at 1000 RPM exactly.
3. Adjusted mixture screws (removed tamper-proof caps) to attain maximum RPM (now bike was idling at about 1500 RPM).
4. Re-adjusted idle screw to bring idle back down to 1000 RPM.

Step 3 above is absolutely critical. Now, when I start the bike up from completely cold (with full choke), it idles at about 1100 RPM for a couple of minutes and then goes up to 4000-5000 RPM. I let it stay at 4000-5000 RPM, with full choke, for at least a few minutes. Then I bring the choke to zero, slowly. Then I ride and the bike idles perfectly.

I think most here would agree that skipping this warm-up procedure is asking for poor performance.

[earlfor]

Letting the bike run for any length of time at 5000 rpm to warm up is not a good idea. After a couple minutes when rpm starts to increase, the choke should be decreased and will act as a throttle and limit rpm. I would never run the engine at 5K before the oil is dispersed and warm.

Earl

Now, when I start the bike up from completely cold (with full choke), it idles at about 1100 RPM for a couple of minutes and then goes up to 4000-5000 RPM. I let it stay at 4000-5000 RPM, with full choke, for at least a few minutes. Then I bring the choke to zero, slowly. Then I ride and the bike idles perfectly.

I think most here would agree that skipping this warm-up procedure is asking for poor performance.

[redliner1973]

I never let my cold engine go beyond 2500 max when choking... :twisted: