Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

[Jay B]

#1 Most Suzuki's syhould idle when fully warmed up between 900 to 1200 rpm depending on where you live. (alitude, air pressure and what not)

#2 sounds like valve clatter or cam chain to me. Check those out.

I dont know about the exhaust leak.

Now the biggie. NEVER let you bike warm up at 5000 rpm. Its disaster waiting to happen. Keep adjusting the choke down so the warm up idle is between 2000 to 2500 rpm MAX. Anything faster and the cold oil is not going to get to the needed parts and lube them properly. Metal on metal contact at that rpm is asking for BIG BIG trouble. You think that cam chain/valve clatter is loud now.

Lastly take the carbs off and clean them completly and thouroghly. No bike regardless of the size will run worth a tinkers damn with dirty carbs.

[earlfor]

Yep Jay, for sure something is seriously out of whack if you need to pull 5K with the choke to keep the bike running on start up. On my 750, I pull half choke out, touch starter and its running in less than 2 secs. Five more seconds and I push the choke to off, and it idles at 1000 rpm all by itself. :-)
Never touch the throttle.

Earl

Lastly take the carbs off and clean them completly and thouroghly. No bike regardless of the size will run worth a tinkers damn with dirty carbs.

[Dave_A]

If you don't want to hear your keys rattling you can put a little patch of black duct tape one you handle bar. Grey duct tape may look a little out of place.

Steve

It's not the keys... It just SOUNDS like keys...

[nabrams]

Guys,

Thanks for the tip about not warming up at 5000 RPM.
On my bike, it takes about 3 minutes to make the jump to 5000 RPM (it jumps from 2000 to 5000 in just a couple of seconds). I thought the oil would be well circulated by the time 3 minutes had elapsed, but I'll play it safe anyway.
The bike sure does run smoother though after a long warm-up. If I just let it warm up for a couple of minutes, it is significantly less responsive.

Thanks again.

[Dave_A]

From what your describing, especially with the change in RPM, maybe the cam chain phenolics are grooved to much and worn out, and your tensioner is not taking up the excess slack. :twisted:

This means what??? Replace the cam chain??? Replace the tensioner??? Adjust something???

[Dave_A]

BTT

BTT, anyone???

How do I figure out what's causing that rattling-keys-like noise, and how do I fix (whatever it may be)...

[Anonymous]

The phenolics he's talking about are the plastic cam chain guides in the engine.

You could go over the bike with a stethescope trying to find the general area of the noise. Does the cam chain tensioner knob stay in one place or does it twist back and forth?

Steve

[Dave_A]

The phenolics he's talking about are the plastic cam chain guides in the engine.

You could go over the bike with a stethescope trying to find the general area of the noise. Does the cam chain tensioner knob stay in one place or does it twist back and forth?

Steve

Tensioner knob???

Which knob is this???