Head Lights just quit

[biker_guy]

I have 82 gs850 dual low beams and one high beam. I know now that's not the best set up I did that before getting on here. Well everything else on that same circuit works just fine. Double checked the fuse anyway it's good. Tried touching the ground to the frame that didn't make it come on. I don't have a tester (get one in the morning)

When I was first looking at the bike the guy told me that the headlight could be shut off. I asked ok well where's the high beams? buh. He was just talking it up like he knew everything. According to him I bet you guys didn't know 82 was the first year of shaft drive. Anyway I thought it was just because of the battery because when I put a new battery in the highs and lows both worked. And they worked all day until the last time I wanted to go for a spin before I started doing some work that would keep me off it for a while. Sounds like the switch?? probly just guess work till I get a tester.

[chef1366]

Get a tester

[BassCliff]

The darkness fears the light!

Hi Mr. biker_guy,

I just wanted to relate my recent headlight experience.

I've got the stock, round H4 headlight. Very soon after I purchased my bike I replaced the headlight bulb with a Slyvania Silverstar H4 bulb. It's a terrifically bright, white light. One day I was following Mr. rapidray to his house to work on my carbs. He mentioned that my headlight was off. :-?

It turned out that the high beam was out but the low beam still worked. I rode it home like that, picked up a new bulb, installed it, but it still didn't work. :-?

Upon closer inspection, I found one of the wires in the head light bulb socket had broken. I stripped and tinned the wire and soldered it back on to the connector in the socket. Now I've got high and low beams again. :-)

I ride with my high beam on all the time, day or night.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Steve]

I ride with my high beam on all the time, day or night.

Thanks for the warning. Seems I am relegated to following you if we ever ride together.

I don't mind the high beams in the daytime, as they tend to catch cagers' eyes better, but mostly not called for at night.

.

[BassCliff]

Let there be light!

I don't mind the high beams in the daytime, as they tend to catch cagers' eyes better, but mostly not called for at night.

.

It is around here! And I would not mind it one bit if you followed me with your bright lights on. In fact, I would insist on it. These cigarette flipping, cell phone talking, CD changing, pager texting, latte sipping, fast food munching, GPS watching motorists we have out here can't see a dang thing. They're too busy socializing, doing business, eating, and being entertained to pay attention to their driving. They don't stop for STOP signs and a red light is just a "suggestion".

If you were to come back, I think you'd be surprised how things have changed since you've been gone, Mr. Steve. I'm really looking forward to visiting Indiana in September.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Skateguy50]

I got a bit of the light off / light on sydrome going here myself... (off being low, on being high)

So far gone through a double pack of hallogens, one burned out the high only the next burned out the low only... I assumed maybe even though I was extra careful i touched them... so lets try some regular H4's.

Well that lasted for a week or so till last night, took the wife to the drive in (nice hour or so backroad drive to get to) and all was fine. By the time we got there it was getting dark and I could tell the light was on.

When I started the bike up at the end of the night to pack up my low was out. Seems I notice them all going out on startup, though up till last night I thought it could happend while riding and just notice it then.... but in the dark coming in I would have noticed.

(sorry for the thread hijack, maybe my issue can help solve yours too)

Anyways upon searching around it seems its a voltage issue as its always the wire inside burning out like a fuse would, if I put my meter on the sockets of the lamp and rev the engine what range of voltage is expected / ok to be reaching the lamp? Also if it is an issue is there a way to fix the problem at the light or is likely the RR?

I know some about electrical systems but new to bikes in general so forgive me, with clear direction I know I can solve this though.

[Steve]

And I would not mind it one bit if you followed me with your bright lights on. In fact, I would insist on it.

You would not want me following you with my high beams on in daytime. I have a modulator installed, and the combination of some VERY GOOD optics on the Wing headlight and the modulator would get rather irritating in your mirror rather quickly. Night time is another time you don't want me in your mirror with high beams on. The stock lights are bad enough, but I also have the option of turning on my Tulsa driving lights.
It's quite a light show when all the lights are on. Two 65-watt high beams, two 55-watt driving lights and two 21-watt ... well, they call them 'accessory' lights.
And, ... I'm just waiting for one of the Tulsa lights to burn out. When it does, I am replacing both of them with 100-watt bulbs.
Sorry, GSers, my alternator can handle all that, and more. It's a 90 amp alternator.

I'm really looking forward to visiting Indiana in September.

What part of Indiana, and what part of September?

... if I put my meter on the sockets of the lamp and rev the engine what range of voltage is expected / ok to be reaching the lamp? Also if it is an issue is there a way to fix the problem at the light or is likely the RR?

Most of the manuals for our bikes specify a reading of 14.0 to 15.5 volts at the battery when the engine is turning 5000 rpm. I would expect maybe a few tenths of a volt less at the headlight socket. Rather than take the headlight out to do all the tests, just do the tests in The Stator Papers. All of your work will be confined to the battery and the stator connectors, usually under or near the left side cover.

If you are within the voltage specs, it is likely that you are losing bulbs due to vibration. It is possible to get a heavy-duty H4 bulb, but it will cost a bit more, too. Another option is to get a heavier-duty bulb from your favorite auto-parts store. I have also found them at Wal-Mart, but what you are looking for is a Sylvania H4LL or a 9003LL. The LL stands for Long Life, so they are just a little heavier-duty in their construction.

.

[Skateguy50]

Thanks, I will test again but when I was doing all my wire cleanup of connections and pulling back the harness tape and checking and retaping and all that I did some rough checks and from memory was in that range.

I will defiantly pull out the meter tonight and give that a try... and will get the LL version as my replacement and keep the backup I have as just that and not burn that one out.

Now that I think of it that may be the cause since I recall one of the halogens high beam went out when I didnt even use my highs. (road a total of 2 times at night so far)