I guess I'm confused about using the sight glass. If I do an oil change, should I add oil until it's in the right spot via the sight glass, or should I go with the listed volume in the clymer manual and not worry about the sight glass. If it's the latter, how do I check the oil leverl on a regular basis?
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spadefoot
Oil Change Question
I have an 82 gs650gl with an odd oil change "issue". I just bought this bake a couple of months ago and got it on the road recently. I decided to do an oil change w/o filter this time and then do a full change later. These bikes have a sight glass for the oil level. If I add oil to the point that I can see the oil level at the top of the sight glass, after I run the bike for a little while, there appears to be no oil what so ever in the sight glass at all. It seems like, if I rock the bike a bit, the oil shows back up. My hypothesis is that it's either sitting in the top end, or in shaft drive area.
I guess I'm confused about using the sight glass. If I do an oil change, should I add oil until it's in the right spot via the sight glass, or should I go with the listed volume in the clymer manual and not worry about the sight glass. If it's the latter, how do I check the oil leverl on a regular basis?Tags: None
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maro
I have the 650G. I just did the same thing as you. Didn;t change the filter, just drained from the pan and added fresh oil. anyway, I wait till it fills in the glass. Then I run around on it for a few minutes and put it back on the center stand. within a few minutes it should settle and you should see it in the glass.
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BassCliff
Hi Mr. spadefoot,
Just to add to Mr. maro's good advice: If you don't change the filter, then add the amount of oil that's imprinted on the case cover near the fill plug. When you do change the filter, add a little more (around 600-800ml). In both cases, run the bike a little, turn it off, place it on the center stand, let the oil settle for a few minutes, check the sight glass, add as necessary. I suggest checking your oil level every day before you ride, just to be sure. Be careful not to overfill your crankcase.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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spadefoot
Ok, thanks for the advice... So it should come back to level in the sightglass after some time sitting, right?
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35617
- Torrance, CA
Suzuki GS650 Service Manual states the bike should be on the center stand and the oil should be checked one minute after turning off the engine.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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spadefoot
Originally posted by Nessism View PostSuzuki GS650 Service Manual states the bike should be on the center stand and the oil should be checked one minute after turning off the engine.
Wow, based on that my engine has no oil in it. So I should run it, put it on the center stand, wait one min and them add oil until I see it in the sight glass?
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35617
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by spadefoot View PostWow, based on that my engine has no oil in it. So I should run it, put it on the center stand, wait one min and them add oil until I see it in the sight glass?Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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highmileage
No, you SHOULD change your oil and filter. Frams are less than $4 at Advance Auto Parts.
(I know, many of you hate Frams. But a cheap, clean filter is much better than a filthy old one!)
It's not just that you are leaving in a dirty filter, but all of the dirty oil that's sitting in the filter will be mixing in with your new, virginal oil. So you will still have dirty oil in your bike along with a dirty filter to try to clean it.
Anyway, let the bike sit on the centerstand (on level ground) for several minutes before you believe the level in the site glass. I wait at least ten...
You can find something to do during this ten minutes, such as cleaning bugs off the bike or check the tire pressures
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BassCliff
Originally posted by highmileage View PostNo, you SHOULD change your oil and filter.
Mr. spadefoot, your bike is on the center stand, right? Not the side stand.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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maro
Originally posted by highmileage View PostNo, you SHOULD change your oil and filter. Frams are less than $4 at Advance Auto Parts.
(I know, many of you hate Frams. But a cheap, clean filter is much better than a filthy old one!)
It's not just that you are leaving in a dirty filter, but all of the dirty oil that's sitting in the filter will be mixing in with your new, virginal oil. So you will still have dirty oil in your bike along with a dirty filter to try to clean it.
Anyway, let the bike sit on the centerstand (on level ground) for several minutes before you believe the level in the site glass. I wait at least ten...
You can find something to do during this ten minutes, such as cleaning bugs off the bike or check the tire pressures
unless of course you actually put too much oil in because you thought you were low because it was really HOT out and thought you were leaking and burning oil, only to discover you are wrong and now you have WAY too much in there, so you drain out from the main drain plug just to bring up the level to a normal state. ... also, removing the filter in this case is overkill, as I feel at risk of stripping those soft metal bolts on the filter cap (ask me how I know) and then not having a bike to ride for a few days while scrambling for new ones.......
I'm even nervous about that dayum drain plug.......which I had to re-tap last year
hehehehe
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BassCliff
Originally posted by maro View PostI feel at risk of stripping those soft metal bolts on the filter cap (ask me how I know) and then not having a bike to ride for a few days while scrambling for new ones.......
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffLast edited by Guest; 06-27-2008, 05:54 PM.
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highmileage
Ah, now I understand.
I stripped my little nuts ages ago (boy that sounds dirty) and screwed up the little studs. By nuts I mean the tiny acorn ones on filter cover.
Using a vice grip, I unscrewed the studs and replaced them with three regular bolts (of the correct size, threads the same as the studs and length the same as the studs after they were removed and with the acorn nuts on them).
Now, I just bolt the filter cover on (being careful not to damage those precious, dainty little threads in the cases and on the little bolts). Always push in against the oil filter spring while I hand tighten the bolts before they ever get a wrench and never try to torque those tiny suckers down much!
I've never had any issues with the drainplug, though. Although it's been a while, as I recall I use a spark plug socket on it.Last edited by Guest; 06-27-2008, 05:36 PM.
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BassCliff
I forgot to mention that I ordered three of the stud bolts too, just in case I ever need to replace one of those. It's cheap insurance. I'd hate to have to park my bike for a week over a dollar part.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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80GS750
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