Spark plug wires and ends.

[saaz]

I just replaced my old coils with 92 GSXR 750 ones. I used the same wires and plug boots as they were in good condition (solid core wires). There is no comparison in the way the bike now starts and runs. The old coils were barely adequate and causing me grief in try to fix what I thought were tuning problems with the carbs.

[SqDancerLynn1]

I assumed mine were soldered in because they would not pull out no matter how hard I pulled I was telling HOW I repaired my coils which are still working I had purchased a pair of coils on ebay from a GS750 which should have fit ? but I think they were from a GS550. The wires were way too short so I had nothing to loose by trying to repair them in a way that would require the least amount of cutting into the coil. Would I do it again YES

[saaz]

My old wires were stuck in somehow, I just cut off the wires as I don't know if the old coils may be of use someday so did not want to hack into them!

[Anonymous]

You know my 450 seems to be just like your 400. I'm getting a pair of dyna coils anyway so I pulled the wire out and all I see down in that dark abyss is a single dot. 8O There doesn't appear to be any insulation to remove to expose a pin to mount a new wire onto. Not terribly user friendly, but oh well. The new coils ought to be.
Let us know how your "coil rebuild" goes!

Sam

Well, I gave it a try and things went South really fast. :x Here's a little bit of background first. My 400 origionally had copper wires built into the coils. There are two coils for two cylinders. I gave the first copper wire a good twist and nothing happened so I gripped onto it with a pair of pliers and kept twisting... Eventually the copper wire broke off and all I could see in the hole was a copper dot where the wire disappears into the actual coil. :roll: Seeing as my bike is very important to me and I even took it with me on a 4 month road contract this summer I wasn't ready to give up. I took a drill bit half the size of the coil hole and drilled right out the other side of the coil along the copper wire. The wire was still embedded in the plastic (no insulation at this point) so I grabbed my 60 Watt soldering iron and melted away enough plastic so that I could solder to the wire. Then I put my new silicone copper wire into the old hole until it was sticking out of the other end next to the old copper wire and soldered the sucker on. :twisted: I've gotten both of these things taken care of now and I'm waiting on the epoxy to cure over the exposed areas of my coils.

Anybody else do this? haha, yeah right :P Will my 1100 turn out this way too?

Cheers, Steve

[Anonymous]

The coils are working but it's hard to tell how well since I've only run them for about 10 minutes in a cool environment. I believe the idle of 1000RPM is a noticeable amount smoother. Before the operation my bike would wonder between 1 and 2 cylinders from time to time but now I have to really listen for it to notice. The bike still revs freely to 8000RPM in neutral which is all my ears can handle. I did this last night to test my wiring and there doesn't seem to be any difference there. I did note that my old coil wires still had 0 resistance at about 40 000 km but there's no good way for me to test high voltage performance.

The only reason I did this was that I'm after an extra 30km/h of top end that my bike is supposed to have (130km/h vs 160km/h). I won't find out if I've done it until next spring when I fit better tires but I suspect that what I really need is a rebuilt top end. This was a cheap thing to do and pistons are no longer available if I were to find a lot of wear.

Steve