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    #31
    Originally posted by 49er View Post
    Ah, CV carbs. They run so smoothly with an airbox! :-)

    Bill, I think that you need to check the operation of the diaphragms. If they're lagging too far behind the engine air/fuel demand, you will have a lean stagger until they open at the right rate. Make certain that part of your pods are not blocking off the vacuum ports.

    You can compensate with needle shape, or the diaphragm spring rates.
    The pods aren't blocking the vacuum port. I have the needle set at the bottom notch. Can't raise it anymore unless I lose the plastic spacer or at least shave a little off it. I have four extra ones. Maybe I'll try that if the spark plug cap trim doesn't work.
    The 1150 springs are shorter than the 1100s. Can I shorten them, Ian?

    I'm also going to invest in a Dyna S and green Dyna coils.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #32
      Bill,

      If you are getting a nice fat spark at the plug I wouldn't bother.... on mine when the ignition went you could clearly see it was weak. You could also test it per clymer's, mine failed that too.

      Could the problem be the other way? Too much fuel when it's coming onto needle?

      Dan
      1980 GS1000G - Sold
      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
      1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
      2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

      www.parasiticsanalytics.com

      TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
        The pods aren't blocking the vacuum port. I have the needle set at the bottom notch. Can't raise it anymore unless I lose the plastic spacer or at least shave a little off it. I have four extra ones. Maybe I'll try that if the spark plug cap trim doesn't work.
        The 1150 springs are shorter than the 1100s. Can I shorten them, Ian?

        I'm also going to invest in a Dyna S and green Dyna coils.
        Bill, I didn't realise that you had the needles on the bottom notch. Seems a bit extreme but so are the engine mods!
        If you were rich on the needles at transition, that should carry on through the mid range and show up on your plug chops.

        You need to compare both sets of springs along with the weight of the diaphragms. Your vacuum levels at 1/4 throttle will be different to what you had before you fitted the larger valves and enlarged the porting.
        Dont cut your 1150 springs just yet.

        If your plug chops are good in the mid range, try leaning your pilot air screws a tad and see if the transistion improves. If it gets worse, then you are definately leaning at transition. If it improves your pilots are too rich.

        Because of your radical tuning, you may never get it to run perfectly, especially at the bottom end of the rev range. But don't stop trying just yet.
        :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

        GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
        GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
        GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
        GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

        http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
        http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

        Comment


          #34
          I richened the needle with washers in place of the spacer. Too fat! I couldn't even get it to run at WOT.
          The heat range on the plugs is showing up and I have one thread on 2 and 4 and none on 1&3. I think I'm fat all around.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #35
            Lowered the needle one notch from the bottom and put in the 137.5s. Issue solved. I guess when I jetted these carbs in the cooler weather it was borderline rich and the heat just but it over the edge.
            Plus those plugs threw me for a loop! I guess they were just bad plugs:-?
            They certainly didn't melt from being lean!
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              Lowered the needle one notch from the bottom and put in the 137.5s. Issue solved. I guess when I jetted these carbs in the cooler weather it was borderline rich and the heat just but it over the edge.
              Plus those plugs threw me for a loop! I guess they were just bad plugs:-?
              They certainly didn't melt from being lean!
              If your plugs didn't melt from excessive leanness, their heat range number was incorrectly marked on the plugs. Melted electodes are bad news and are usually followed by holed pistons. You're one lucky Dude!

              Redo your plug chops to make sure you've got it right. Even better, do a dyno check of your AFR's throughout the rev range.
              :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

              GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
              GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
              GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
              GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

              http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
              http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

              Comment


                #37
                The right way would be to get it Dyno'ed.
                What would I do with all my spare time??
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                  The right way would be to get it Dyno'ed.
                  What would I do with all my spare time??
                  You could prepare an exceptional Independance Day feast for your GSR buddies :-)
                  :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

                  GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
                  GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
                  GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
                  GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

                  http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
                  http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by 49er View Post
                    You could prepare an exceptional Independance Day feast for your GSR buddies :-)
                    I wish! One thousand reservations. YIKES!
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Ok...total newb question when it comes to this, but after reading this thread, and knowing some of the symtoms that chef was experiencing (not the plug problem, thankfully) kinda got me starting to look more at my plugs. They LOOK good, good colour. The response in the throttle is the same as Chef was having, that slight stagger when you wack it, then being blasted out of a cannon when the slides/throttle caught up. Anyway, i see this about heat range reading with the threads, WHAT exactly am i looking for with this?

                      Comment


                        #41
                        On the outside of the plugs count the threads that have color. Lecroy stated that 1.5 threads is a good temp.
                        Looking at my plugs I'm wondering if the color is heat or oil? These are the same plugs I put after new rings were installed. I don't think I was running hot because I was rich and you run cooler rich.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                          On the outside of the plugs count the threads that have color. Lecroy stated that 1.5 threads is a good temp.
                          Looking at my plugs I'm wondering if the color is heat or oil? These are the same plugs I put after new rings were installed. I don't think I was running hot because I was rich and you run cooler rich.
                          K, thats kinda what i thought, but then started thinking that it COULDNT possibly be THAT simple...lol

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                            K, thats kinda what i thought, but then started thinking that it COULDNT possibly be THAT simple...lol
                            Thanks for asking TCK, it was a new concept to me as well. Is this an old
                            racer trick? I've never heard of it and want to know more. Is 1.5 threads always what you want? Or only for this engine? So many factors in this, plug construction, head construction, plug thread pitch, plug base material, it seems like it would be hard to find a standard line to draw in the sand as to where/what/why.

                            I know I could just google it, but I'd love to hear people's experiences with it, if you all are willing to share

                            Comment


                              #44
                              I posted quite a bit on this. Try a search.

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