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problem after new stator, R/R and battery
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Johnny K
problem after new stator, R/R and battery
I installed a new stator, duneage R/R and a battery. It starts right up no problem. The idle on my bike wasn't constant and would rev high with the clutch in for 15 sec and slowly stall if it fell below 2000rpm. I took it to my mechanic and he adjusted the air screws to try and even out the idle. I took it for a ride and told him that it was a little better, but the problem Still was having the same problem, but a tiny bit better on the idling. After it falls around 2000rpm and wait another 10 sec, the rpm's would go down and stall. So he said check the intake boots and carbs for a vacuum leak. I took the carbs off and intake boots and seals are fine. I put a tiny bit of gear lube on the intake boots where the carbs go into and then a little on the edge where the K&N pods go onto. Well when I went to start it back up, it took a while and wouldn't even start even though I had it on prime for about 15 sec. I tried like 6 or 7 times and that sound before it starts was fast every time I tried to start it, but still wouldn't start. Then the 8th time, it almost died. I waited 5 min and started it. At first it sounded all froggy and very weird, but after a couple of revs and adjusting the idle screw to make it idle, it went away. I let it idle for about 10 min. Thought it was okay, so I took it for a ride to get gas. The idle was still eratic here and there at stops and lights. It started right up after getting gas no problem. When I got home I let it idle in the shed. It was really weird, because normally when it drops down below 1500rpm, it will die shortly thereafter, but it was actually idling at 1000 and just on the verge of stalling and then not. I was curious so I let it idle and kept it idle by slowly turning the idle screw and did this for about 3-4 min. So when it finally stalled after a 4 min of doing that. Went to start and the bike went womp,womp,womp..womp......womp........womp....... Then tried again it wouldn't turn. Just really confused about it being electrical or vacuum related. Waited about 5 min and tried to start where it went womp...womp.....womp.... So after it dies and I wait about 5 min, it will try to start. give it a day and it would probably start right up. Hope this helps you guys. Thanks.Tags: None
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35645
- Torrance, CA
Sounds like the carbs are too lean. GS850 is famous for wanting a perfectly sealed airbox so if you are running pods, the bike will be lean for sure.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Johnny K
So what would you suggest? And what about the battery being dead after I let it idle for a while?
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I agree with Nessism, it sounds a bit lean. With your pods, the main jet should be bumped up a bit. With your V&H pipe it needs to get bumped a bit more. I can't suggest actual numbers as I have not done that to an 850, but you probably need something in the vicinity of 125 mains. Pilots should be OK, but needles might also need to be shimmed.
Battery dying? Very few of these bikes will actually charge at idle speed. Most need to be running close to 2000 rpm before they show over 13 volts.
The usual load of headlight, tail light and ignition can easily draw about 10 amps, so it won't take long to run the battery down.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Johnny K
Oh okay. As far as those jets, I have absolutely not a clue and wouldn't want to attempt to change anything because I have no idea what I am doing on that carb. It has a stage 3 dyno jet in it.
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Aha, new light in tunnel. DJ stage 3 should take care of the jetting needs rather nicely, but that still leaves your charging problem. Do you have a volt meter? If not, you need one anyway, so get one, put the leads across the battery to see what your actual voltage is. If necessary, go through the tests in The Stator Papers to see exactly where you problem lies. You have replaced all the components, it sounds like there might still be a connector or a grounding problem.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Johnny K
Yeah I have a voltmeter. I just need to go through and re-check everything. It's just funny because I bought a new stator, r/r and battery. Wish I bought brand new carbs when I bought the bike because my mechanic and I have gone through just a pain to idle those carbs. I am hoping it is something simple to fix.
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Johnny K
I will do the stator check when I have time to charge my new battery. Went to start it yesterday after 5 hours of sitting after a 1/2 hour ride. It went womp, womp...... I honestly dont get it. I am sure my carbs are prolly fine, but its some electrical problem that is hard to diagnose when I went through each connection twice, making sure each was secure, cleaned and greased. The battery is not charging because when I started the bike, it was a fast start with no problem (hence the new stator,r/r and battery). Rode for a 1/2 hour with rpm's between 3500 and 6000. Also when letting out in 1st, it is very sketchy and will bog until 3000rpm. I sometimes have to play a little with the clutch and gas until 3000. If i were to let out slowly to grab and give it gas just a little, it really bogs and sounds ****ty. At about 3000 it runs pretty good with the exception of if I were to give it more than say 1/2 to 1/3 throttle turn kinda fast, it will bog and sound ****ty. If i slowly give it throttle through each gear, it will slowly climb to 7000. But it just doesn't sound smooth, and rather rough. Say im in 2nd and at 4000, and i throttle real hard. It will just bog and sound like its farting. I am really at odds ends and just run-down and dissapointed with this whole issue. But first i know its electrical because of the battery issue. Next could be the carbs, but if I go there its almost sayin if i mess with them, then the bike wont run right because of lack of knowledge on the carbs. And we all know I'm not gonna take it to any shop that could work on it because it would cost so much just for them to take a look at it. It would be like me bending down to grab my ankes without any lube, for sake of discussion. Any ideas would be soo helpful guys. Thanks
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