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    #16
    Originally posted by flyingace View Post
    I have a related question. If the #2 carb float needle was stuck closed, would that carb have no fuel,
    Correct, the bowl would be empty. There are two sets of interconnecting tubes. One set is to feed fuel to the carbs (upstream of the inlet valve). The other set is a vent path, to keep the inside of the bowl at atmospheric pressure (just like the vent plumbing in your house).
    and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
    __________________________________________________ ______________________
    2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

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      #17
      Well, is the correct answer behind door #1 or door #2?

      Winner! - I have to go with #2. It is a common fuel inlet passage, not a common fuel leveler. The line is above the level of the inlet valve.

      Now, this opens the possibility that the needle valve is stuck shut and there is no fuel in the #2 bowl.

      The question to the poster is: does the cylinder not fire only at idle/just above idle, or not fire at any engine speed?
      Last edited by Guest; 07-02-2008, 09:02 PM.

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        #18
        I was going to say gee whiz, we can't all be Master Tech's. The funny part is I deal with architects on a daily basis as my Clark Kent position as Project/Operations Mgr. for FF&E.

        I only bust out the Master tech, L1 card when some service writer starts to lip off to me on servicing company equipment.

        As far as carb advice, keep needles and seats together, so in otherwords, what you take out of one carb, make sure it stays with that carb!

        The tutorial does a good job of walking you through the rest. You know where to go if you have any questions. The nice thing for me I was the fact that I was able to stop by Robert Barr's house to get my quality rebuild kit for those spur-of-the-moment rebuilds.

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          #19
          Originally posted by doctorgonzo View Post
          You'll be fine.
          Use the pictorial guide
          Use bags or boxes, or egg cartons something labeled for contents.
          Use a system of placing always same spot on table or something for which carb is which. You can mark them but it will come off in the dip.
          Take pictures of before you take each thing apart like the choke actuator, etc...
          Go slow
          Go slow
          Get a good screw driver (the bits from my impact driver work well) for taking them apart.
          Replace with allen heads while you have them apart.
          Go Slow
          All of the above, and my wife gave me a present when I started working on another set of carbs.
          She came home from the dollar store and said, "will these work for you?"


          Yep, disposable muffin tins. Two of the 6-place tins in a package for 99 cents.
          Spread four of them out and you have one tin for each carb. No problem keeping stuff straight.

          .
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          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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            #20
            Yep, disposable muffin tins. Two of the 6-place tins in a package for 99 cents.
            Spread four of them out and you have one tin for each carb. No problem keeping stuff straight.

            .[/quote]

            Great idea! Thanks.

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