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1150 Starter Issue

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    1150 Starter Issue

    I have read through the issues with the starters (including a thread the other day where someone had the same issue, wish I could find it!) and am having a bit of an noggin-scratcher. I need to check the bolts to make sure that the starter is tightened down, but onward with the problem.

    Had a leak in the head gasket in the front at the bolt, so tightened the bolt down last night, then this afternoon had a chance to fire her up and see if the slow drip stopped. The engine turned, then made the infamous 'CLACK' sound. Tried again, 'CLACK'. Hit the kill switch, turned the key off, and grabbed the voltmeter. The battery registered 1.6v; strange since it was 12.5v last night. Changed out the battery with my other 1150, and began connecting the postive, then negative. Next thing I know, the starter begins turning over, real slow at first, then to the point as if I was holding the starter button. Disconnected the battery, but the positive touched as I was disconnecting the negative. Got a spark, and the starter upped and began kicking the engine over again.

    Ideas? I know there was another post with a similar situation recently, but for the life of me I can't find it. So far, the carbs have been completely rebuilt from the ground up, checked the bowls for gas, did the relay mod, new plugs, valve adjustment, etc. etc. Only other issue is #4 plug weak spark and pipe not heating up like others, so will check #4 for hydrolock, based on recent events (coil is good from tests, thx all!).

    #2
    Take that starter out and clean it.
    Also check the battery grounds and clean all the contacts form battery, solenoid and starter.
    Also the ground from the battery to the crankcase.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      and check if the solenoid actually works (may have seized in the closed position)
      GS850GT

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        #4
        For saftey reason Just go to Home Depot in the lawnmower section & get a starter soloniod & replace it.. The ONLY way the starter can work without you pushing the button is the soloniod, maybe the 12 volt line to the soloniod (small wire) check to see if it has any voltage with it disconnected

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          #5
          Hey Haggis...
          I agree that the solenoid is probably stuck...or there is 12V on the small wire that energizes the solenoid...only way the starter can run without you pushing the button.
          Easy test...unplug the small wire...if it continues to crank...then the solenoid it stuck. If it doesn't start ...then start looking a t the wiring from the starter button.

          I had a no start problem with my 1150...ended up being a bad connection where the starter motor bolts to the engine...just years of corrosion.
          Cleaned that up and it cranks fine now.

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            #6
            Thanks everyone for the input, i'll check it out tonite when I get home.

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              #7
              I have an extra starter and solenoid.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #8
                If you go looking for another starter, KNOW that the 1150 starter & idler gear are DIFFERENT than the 1100 parts! Ray.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                  If you go looking for another starter, KNOW that the 1150 starter & idler gear are DIFFERENT than the 1100 parts! Ray.
                  Good to know Ray!
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                    If you go looking for another starter, KNOW that the 1150 starter & idler gear are DIFFERENT than the 1100 parts! Ray.
                    Good to know Ray, thx!

                    Originally posted by hcritz View Post
                    Hey Haggis...
                    I agree that the solenoid is probably stuck...or there is 12V on the small wire that energizes the solenoid...only way the starter can run without you pushing the button.
                    Easy test...unplug the small wire...if it continues to crank...then the solenoid it stuck. If it doesn't start ...then start looking a t the wiring from the starter button.

                    I had a no start problem with my 1150...ended up being a bad connection where the starter motor bolts to the engine...just years of corrosion.
                    Cleaned that up and it cranks fine now.
                    I checked the battery and it was partially discharged, so onto the charger it went. I checked the connections and cleaned everything up, put the battery back in and she caught immediately. Now I just need to check compression, since I am getting some smoke from the pipes and #4 seems to be running cool. She'll only run on choke right now, but I figured as much since rebuilding the carbs.

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