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charging continued

  • Thread starter Thread starter Johnny K
  • Start date Start date
Johnny K said:
Ok Matchless, tomorrow morning I will follow and test what you suggest. But going back to the "head" fuse and how it melted. Wouldn't I want to fix that and try to find a 6 pin connector to replace mine that is slightly melted and some copper of the wires exposed. Nothing else in the headlight harness seems to be melted or anything and took each connector apart and spray cleaned, greased and then put together. All is fine except that one connector. Just thinking that I should fix that before I start testing again? But I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

Repairing or replacing the connector is very important so I assumed that was a given. It may even be carrying the battery positive that is switched via the ignition switch - mostly an orange wire and runs back to the fuse box. On my bike the top fuse is 10A and orange/red going to the light switch, the second one is 10A and orange/green and supplies the brake lights, ignitor and oil pressure light with power. The 3rd one is 10A and orange/white and provides the coils with power. All three of these are only powered when the inition is switched on.
The fourth fuse is 15A and is your "main fuse" this takes power directly to the ignition switch and when switched on and brings that back to the first 3 fuses on the orange wire. The last fuse is a spare for an accessory if needed and always hot, also 10A.
 
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Johnny K said:
Just another question. My green wire off the RR is going to the bolt underneath the solenoid. And from that same bolt is a new 16 guage wire going from there to the negative battery terminal bolt. Should I splice the green wire and jump that with a 16 guage wire directly to the negative battery terminal bolt? Or just stay with the 2 wire from the solenoid to the negative terminal?
Click to expand...


No, not necessary if the two terminals are clean and making good contact with the bolt tight. This is seen as a direct wire to the negative terminal.

The reason many people were stating that the R/R negative wire should go directly to the battery was that some people grounded it to the nearest bolt. If that bolt area received its negative from the battery via other connections somewhere away and those connections were bad, maybe corroded, loose and oxidised connectors there may have been some resistance resulting in a voltage drop, so a direct connection was advised as preferable and yours should comply.

Johnny, the best way to ensure a connector is making a nice clean contact is to ensure that the brass is not caked with oxidation and clean. It must make firm contact and the wire end that is crimped should also be clean from any green stuff. Carb cleaner, contact cleaner and dielectric grease, in that order or even light sanding first.

Good luck and let me know how you are getiing along.
 
Matchless, I havent been able to tackle the electrical on my bike yet because I've been busy with some other stuff. So I have to order a new fuse box and a new 6 pin connector? If that is true, where is a good place to order them from. I went to Auto Zone and they didn't have any. I doubt they would, but had to check anyways.
 
Johnny,
I am not sure where you can get it in your country, but the fuse box will be different and you will have to adapt your wiring to it. I used this type which was available from a motor spares shop. http://cgi.ebay.com/6-way-superior-...NameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em122
There were some suppliers mentioned on a thread somewhere on this forum.
This is an improvement as you will be upgrading to the blade type fuses at the same time. I would suggest any place that supplies auto electrical components, such as connectors, wire relays etc.
 
Thanks for the site. I will have to check it out when I get a chance. But I will keep you informed whenever I get to order and then work on my bike.
 
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