Best Stripped Oil Pan Screw Solution, maybe?

[Shaughn]

From what I hear, you can go to Napa and get an oversize drain plug that you just screw in. Threads are supposed to be sell taping. I'd go that route or just pull the pan and fix the threads properly.

Ness is dead on here - Not just Napa, but any auto parts store/service center will have a collection of regular and oversized drain plugs.
The oversized ones are selfcutting, and definately the way to go, I used them dozens of times for customers who had been abused by the quick lube joints.

Also, avoid the JB Weld. Despite what it says, it will not hold up to the oil long term.
I had an 96 S-10 4x4 and I hairline cracked the oil pan right at the threads. (TIP: Don't offroad your truck in a dirt-bike track)
Where it is a nightmare (like a ~10hr job per Mitchell) to change the oil pan because the front axle tucks up against it and wedges it between the axle, engine and tranny, I thought I'd buy myself a couple of months by using JB Weld over the hairline crack.
I got it scrupulously clean, but in a few weeks it was leaking again. And I had good threads.

Also, regardless of the thread pitch you use, if it is stripped at 14mm, you will not be able to retap it at any other 14mm size.
The 1.5 vs 1.75 is the spacing between threads in mm, and not indicative of the major diameter.
However, a 14x1.25 o-size plug is larger than the stock plug and will cut into the remaining metal.

Also, you can buy that Fram unit at Walmart or an equivalent retailer.
There are also more plug options available, from expanding plugs (think like a boat drain) to all rubber pop in types.
Dorman is the brand I always used, Napa brand is Balkamp, I think, but all probably made in the same Chinese factory anyway.

Good luck!

[peterpressure]

Also, regardless of the thread pitch you use, if it is stripped at 14mm, you will not be able to retap it at any other 14mm size.
The 1.5 vs 1.75 is the spacing between threads in mm, and not indicative of the major diameter.
However, a 14x1.25 o-size plug is larger than the stock plug and will cut into the remaining metal.

So for my 78 Gs750, A M14 - 1.25 Oversized Plug should fix my issue, thanks! This thread could not have come on a better day, I literally encountered this problem 4 hours ago during an oil change.

[Shaughn]

The old thread which covered this: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/archive/index.php/t-71861.html

does anyone have an answer for the last post? I ask because I have a 78 GS750 with a pretty stripped Drain Plug. I assume it is M14 - 1.25

If you had threads to worry about(i.e. pitch interference), you wouldn't be stripped!

The oversized will cut new threads for itself.
Just be very careful and make damn sure you turn it it perpendicular to the surface or you will leak (because it can't make the seal if its cocked at the bottom)

An oversized plug will even work in an aluminum pan where that threads have been pulled out completely, and only a straight bore remains.
You do need to stick with the nominal major diameter (14mm here) because anything else will be too big to get in. The 14mm oversized is slightly larger than the old plug and is cutting into new meat.

[Billy Ricks]

So for my 78 Gs750, A M14 - 1.25 Oversized Plug should fix my issue, thanks! This thread could not have come on a better day, I literally encountered this problem 4 hours ago during an oil change.

You can use the 1.5mm thread pitch as well. That's probably what you'll end up finding. Just use the first oversize.

[SqDancerLynn1]

The # i have in my book for overdsized is Motormite #65217
verify the fitment

[79 sh850]

Why not have a helicoil professionally installed? That way you can keep your stock drainplug.

If I went this route, I would probably seat it with a fresh copper washer at every oil change to get a good seal without having to use a lot of torque.

[peterpressure]

Started new thread for my question: Oversized Drain Plug to long

[jonp84]

Solution!

I found a solution to the problem. At the moment I am completely broke (as I munch on a peanut butter sandwich on Safeway bread) because I bought the bike while living month-to-month on a student's income. So I didn't have the funds to fix the oil pan right (either weld something then rethread, or better yet just get a new one). So here is an outline of what I did that worked as a temporary fix, in case anybody else ever is in this situation.

I fabricated a tool out of 1/8" plate steel that I cut to about a 0.3" wide strip. The tool fit through the oil pan drain hole and had a hook on the top that could grab the tab that protrudes into the oil pan. I hooked the tab, then used the tool to bend it in slightly (I know there was a risk of breaking the tab, I was careful). With this done, the oil pan plug threaded fine, but had a very slight leak (several drips overnight). So I redrained the oil, cleaned the contact surfaces and applied an aerosol gasket to the drain screw, then screwed it in and tightened it to spec. I let the gasket set up, refilled the bike with oil, and it doesn't leak at all.

I wouldn't recommend this method if you have other options, but it works for a temporary fix. Next time I change the oil I will just replace the oil pan. Thanks for your help everybody!