'81 GS 750EX is sicker than a dog and won't start

[Badliltexan]

I need help in the worst way before I lose what's left of my sanity! I just bought an '81 GS 750 EX and cannot get the sucker started. Here's what we do know:

- Headlights, turn signals, horn and tail do NOT come on but yet...
- Lights in instrument panel come on (neutral, oil)
- Wiring has been tested throughout- no fails
- Light and Starter switches have been tested and passed
- Battery is brand new and works quite well in hubby's GS 1100GL


Any ideas before I haul her to the nearest bike shop and then have a coronary? Thanks in advance for your help- my old '74 Honda CB360 thanks you too as she is sick and tired of lugging me around and would like to get me off her back.

[tkent02]

I need help in the worst way before I lose what's left of my sanity! I just bought an '81 GS 750 EX and cannot get the sucker started. Here's what we do know:

- Headlights, turn signals, horn and tail do NOT come on but yet...
- Lights in instrument panel come on (neutral, oil)
- Wiring has been tested throughout- no fails
- Light and Starter switches have been tested and passed
- Battery is brand new and works quite well in hubby's GS 1100GL


Any ideas before I haul her to the nearest bike shop and then have a coronary? Thanks in advance for your help- my old '74 Honda CB360 thanks you too as she is sick and tired of lugging me around and would like to get me off her back.

Learn to test this stuff yourself, or get a new bike...

Is the engine turning but not firing?
Not turning at all?
Clicking noise when you push the starter button?
A little info is a good thing.

[Badliltexan]

'Learn to test this stuff yourself, or get a new bike'- thanks for that info and how much more rude could you possibly be? *growl* You think we HAVEN'T tested things yet? Anyhow, my question is obviously related to ELECTRICAL- see below:

Headlights, turn signals, horn and tail do NOT come on but yet...
- Lights in instrument panel come on (neutral, oil)
- Wiring has been tested throughout- no fails
- Light and Starter switches have been tested and passed
- Battery is brand new and works quite well in hubby's GS 1100GL

Engine turns, no clicking on start button. The engine is not my issue here- let me rephrase in plain English for folks a tad confused:

Does anyone have any idea as to WHY the instrument cluster lights but NO working lights, turn signals or horn on rest of my poor bike? Thanks again and oh yeah, rude commentators need not reply*grin*

[tkent02]

Thanks again and oh yeah, rude commentators need not reply*grin*

I certainly won't be wasting any more of my time trying to help a rude newby like you.
Fix your own piece of crap.

[seuadr]

bad ground? bad fuse?bad bulbs? obviously, you have NOT checked everything.

if you tested all the wiring and it still doesn't light up.. you misssed something.

on the other hand, it should start fine with no lights even attached to the bike.

good luck with getting specific help if you are going to insult everyone that replies, though.

[Badliltexan]

Sweetheart, the only rude person here is you. I asked for help in a non rude or condescending way. You however, felt the need to open your mouth and belittle me for posting my FIRST post. Shame on you. As for owning a 'peice of crap', I beg to differ. Far as I can tell son, the only piece of crap around here is you with your bad attitude. Now go outside and play with your tricycle and get off your Momma's computer Have a nice day.

Anyone normal and nice care to help me figure out why my bike is having issues?? Thanks a bunch!

[Badliltexan]

Yes, fuses, bulbs and grounds have been tested- I should have specified that before. Sorry about my oversight.

As for my insulting the first responder- please tell me you don't think his comment ''Learn to test this stuff yourself or get a new bike" isn't rude...I came here in sincere hopes of getting some help- not having some schmuck verbally abuse me right off the bat.

Guess this forum's recommendations from other friends of mine were way off. I'm so sorry I asked for help.

[seuadr]

i think you took it in a much more rude light than he intended. people around here tend to get touchy about the whole " i'm hauling it off to the shop" attitude, as generally, it leads to a hole in the wallet, and still the same problem.

[Nessism]

There is nothing inherently wrong with the GS electrical system which will create the issues as described.

As Seuadr stated, you obviously didn't test the wiring completely even though you state clearly "Wiring has been tested throughout- no fails". I suggest you get a service manual and trace down the circuits that are not working properly.

Regarding the rude behavior, Tkent02 is one of the sharpest guys here when it comes to technical stuff. He knows his $hit.
I think what he is suggesting is that as the owner of a 28 year old motorcycle, it's best to learn to fix things (chasing down wiring issues is not difficult). If you can't do something fairly simple like this you are in for a lot of heartache and wasted money paying some shop hack to fix the bike for you. You would be better off just ditching the bike.

[seuadr]

well, if you are getting no juice and you've checked all that, check for melted wires.. if it's not getting power, there's gotta be an issue somewhere. looked inside the turnsignal stocks and made sure that the wires aren't corroded out? checked the plugs in the headlight to make sure they aren't corroded out? i'd also get a colour wiring diagram as i had wires hooked to the wrong things by the previous owner.. who must have been colourblind, or hooked'em up in the dark.

[NATEO]

are you getting spark? how did you check the wiring? I know you checked the bulbs and fuses, but it wouldnt hurt to double and triple check them. you could try replacing them with ones you KNOW are good...

good luck

[BassCliff]

Hey Howdy Hey!

Hi Ms. Badliltexan,

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Every GS850 (and most other models) has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***********************************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

http://www.electrosport.com/

For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
Salvage/Used
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com

http://www.ozpowersports.com/

If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:

http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki
http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Online Clymer manuals:
http://search.ebscohost.com/ Click on "Small Engine Repair" then "Motorcycles". User=library, password=library. Note: This link may not work if you are on a school campus.

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

[TheCafeKid]

I too think perhaps you took TKent a little too much to heart. He is a bit curt at times, but he DOES know his stuff. Add to the fact that the internet is not a great relayer of tone in a statement, and alot of times people can be taken the wrong way. I have seen him help countless people on this board, and I dont think he meant it in a condesending way. Its simply a fact that you do need to learn to do this stuff yourself, because MOST bike shops wont even TOUCH our old girls. I have had people flat hang up on me when I call looking for parts at some of the local shops around here without so much as a "We cant get that" or anything. At any rate, a manual, if you dont already have one, such as a Clymer, Haynes or OEM Suzuki manual is essential, and will be your bestest friend in the whole wide world when dealing with your bike, besides the folks here of course. Better still, if you have the means and resources, is to have ALL THREE, as each is sometimes better at explaining certain things than the others.

So lets get this laid out ere... You say it wont start. Will it attempt to? Will it crank or turn over at all? Or is it simply turning over but not firing? Again, Im not trying to be condecending or anything, but more info on that would help us out in helping you. Alot of the wiring for said systems is usually located in the headlamp bucket. Unfortunately, Suzuki saw fit to use bullet type connectors on these bikes, and they are quick to corrode, overheat, come loose and generally crap out. One good start would be to at least go thru the connections and clean them up, and use some Dielectric grease on them. Better still would be to remove all of those connectors and switch to spade type connectors, as they are more reliable and make more positive connections. Ive had problems in my 1100G and my 750 with intermitant connections. I nearly went mad myself hunting down a "there one minute and gone the next" main fuse connection. DO check all the fuses again, as while they may appear to be not blown, the glass type sometimes blow down passed where you can see them. I CAN tell you that your Headlamp, Taillamp, and running lights all run off the same fuse, which i do believe to be the first or second fuse in your block. The horn, and I think perhaps the signals and brake light run off the fuse below that. Your switched power wire, if it follows most of the other GS models, will be an orange wire. There will be an Orange wire running to one of your ignition coils, and a white running to the other. these are also switched power wires. A brown wire is generally your tail light. Grey wires are generally going to either the gauge lights and or the signals. Black is always ground. Black and white is USUALLY another ground. If you've tested everything, i would go back and double check it again. Check your grounds as well. There are some goofy places that Suzuki chose to ground things out on these bikes. Especially check that you are getting good ground around the battery. If you check everything, and still do not find an issue, let us know, we'll keep trying to help to you get it nailed down. Dont get too frustrated, there is a reason its not working, the hardest part is generally finding out why. But once you find it, its almost always an easy fix.

[Joe Guilbeau]

1981 gs750ex

Got me a 1981 GS1100EX, and will help out with the electrical.

Play nice with the other members, we got a lot of experience, eh?

You instrument pod feeds a lot of stuff thru it, inside you will find some fuses, also in the headlight bucket there are a few.

The headlight bucket is a can of worms, look carefully at how the harness is tucked into it, you will understand more when you take off the instrument cluster to check the fuses.

I have to look at a schematic diagram before I go on, I've owned mine since 1981.
[edit] ...but haven't looked at the schematic diagram for a while...

[robertbarr]

Guess this forum's recommendations from other friends of mine were way off. I'm so sorry I asked for help.

Please explain exactly what you feel entitled to.

Your questions are so vague that any responder would need ESP to construct a specific answer. It's still not clear whether you can get the bike to crank, for example.

For your bike, keep in mind that scrap metal prices are at an all-time high, and there's always Craigslist.