'81 GS 750EX is sicker than a dog and won't start

[Badliltexan]

Thanks to you for all the helpful advice!!

Dear All-

Thank you for all the helpful advice- some of which I hadn't even considered...let me get back to you after I print some of the ideas and put them to good use- am starting with replacing all fuses and connectors even if they look good/tested good. Color coded electrical manual not much help- last owner I think did do some of the wiring in the dark- think I will follow schematics in Clymer and re-wire proper. I guess that's a good starting point.

And yes, I have helped rebuild an '82 GS 1100GL...I'm not a total mechanical waste although I do so hate the grime under my nails at this point.

As for the person I verbally sparred with and anyone taking offense- please accept my apologies. I am not used to such a 'gruff tone' for asking what I construed to be a simple question. I suppose my pride in how I deal with folks got in the way. Please understand, I deal with 'newbs' all day- people barely able to even operate a computer- I am used to being a bit more gentle with people who lack the IT knowledge I do. As such, I guess I expect the same when I am not a 'guru' in something...anyhow, sorry for the misunderstanding.

[seuadr]

sounds like you are on the right path. i'm sure before long you'll find something amiss.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Ok... divide and conquer as it were.

Do you have a multimeter?

If so, you can disconnect the three prong connector from the headlight and see if any voltage is getting to the headlight connector itself... no voltage ergo no headlight.

You can follow the starter wire from the right handlebar to where it goes to a connector, unplug the handlebar portion of the connector. The wiring harness portion should have a voltage on it when the ignition switch is turned on, if this is so, then jumpering the wire on the wiring harness side should send voltage and currrent to the starter solenoid... do you hear a click when you jumper it? That would be the starter solenoid attemptint to complete the circuit to engage the starter.

Again, check the fuses inside the headlight bucket, there are two that are inline fuses, sometimes some electrical cleaner sprayed and some mechanical manipulation of these fuses are all that are needed. Replace the fuses at any rate.

Since all of the headlight, horn, turn signals do not work, look for the common thread with all of these, check the Black/White ground wire to beging with. Also the Black/Yel? wire going from the turn signal switch to the turn signal relay.

That should get you started...

[biker_guy]

I've only had my bike for just a few weeks now. I've had the headlight stop working also the cluster and the tail light would not come on. I did have dual headlights for a time but that was probly the needle that broke the camels back.(this is on a gs850 but from what I've read should be little differences) there are a few other things on the headlight circuit although everything but the headlight worked. Ended up having to run a new wire for the headlight. Every harness on the headlight circuit melted where the headlight wire ran. As for the cluster and the taillight. I just had to splice in a new harness and put in a switch. The points in the ignition switch are not making contact. The parking light would come on but not the taillight (same wires just a different point contact in the ignition switch.) I ran into a place that sells a new ignition switch for like 22 bucks before shipping for the gs 850 but I want my key to match everything. Just throwing out some ideas

I did use a multimeter to figure most of this out. Some times I was left scratching my head so I just got me a spare piece of wire stripped both ends took apart a harness found a hot wire and connected what I wanted to get working. Have extra fuses though the wire slipped out of my had and touched the handle bars. there went a fuse.

[Suzuki mad]

- Headlights, turn signals, horn and tail do NOT come on but yet...

Have you checked the fuses/fuse box. They sometimes short out at the back and the fuses break but look intact. Do you get a click from the indicator (turn signal) relay?

- Lights in instrument panel come on (neutral, oil)
- Wiring has been tested throughout- no fails
- Light and Starter switches have been tested and passed
- Battery is brand new and works quite well in hubby's GS 1100GL

It may be a dry join in the switch gear but that would be weird on both sides. Suely, somebody hasn't swapped the connector blocks over by mistake? There colour coded. Follow the handle bar leads down to the main loom under the tank and check to see if some PO hasn't changed the block connectors for spades or bullets. Also check that you have the right connectors going together, just in case.

The front of the battery box is where most points lead to for the loom as a basic earthing point. Its not very good with a rubber mounted bolt. I run a secondary earthing line to the engine as a back up.

How much work has been done to get the bike to where it is now. Loads or none?

Suzuki mad

[Matchless]

I ran into a place that sells a new ignition switch for like 22 bucks before shipping for the gs 850 but I want my key to match everything.

The electrical switch part on the ignition switch is removable and to retain your key, just swop the little white box with the wires on the switch. It is held in place by one small screw.

[Badliltexan]

EGAD!! I took this bike last weekend on the handshake and promise that this bike ran...oh yes indeed, it ran...WHEN CHRIST WALKED THE EARTH *grumble*.
Far as I can tell, the last owner did squat- I've been tracing all wires from point A to point B to point C with my multimeter- have replaced scads of questionable wiring already (slightly melted, brittle feeling, etc.), slapped a new battery in, replaced battery end connections, replaced a crapton of connectors, bought new fuses during my lunch break today and will be pounding away on my bad girl soon as the rain lets up (too hot in garage for me).

Am finding some things that don't line up with schematics in Clymer color wise and am trying to figure out what is going where...have pulled all electrical tape off everything just to trace wires (six feet of the crap give or take-WTF?! Almost felt like using a blowtorch to remove some of it). Went and talked to my buddy at cycle shop- told me if I can get my bike working at some point, he'll hire me (har de freaking har). He muttered something about electrical being the worst of bike issues and that doing the detective work can make or break a person. I'm inclined to agree. I have no life anymore. It's being consumed after work by my refusal to let this thing beat me...

Will keep y'all posted on the developments as they come in or watch for me on CNN when I go postal on it.

...I have to hand it to you guys for having the patience to work on your own bikes, btw.

...I need a beer.

[Badliltexan]

It lives!

I HAVE JUICE!!! I HAVE POWER!!!!!!! OH MY GOD!!! The lights are on, the horn bleeps (I should say almost wimpers) and the turn signals work!!!

YOU GUYS SO ROCK!!!

Damn, I'm giddy here *giggle*. This is almost better than sex!

Gotta go- do more fiddling

Hugs to all y'all!! Talk to you soon!

[seuadr]

sweet! just takes paitence.. but when you do the job yourself, it means you know someone took the time to do it right.

i've heard the horns for our bike accuratly described as "the sound a duck makes when you stuff a sock in it's mouth and punch it in the stomach"

[Badliltexan]

i've heard the horns for our bike accuratly described as "the sound a duck makes when you stuff a sock in it's mouth and punch it in the stomach"

ROFLMAO!!! I reckon that's exactly how it sounds

I got her started- she kicked over right away- by all that's holy I'm beside myself!! This is freaking AWESOME!! Have to wait now for trickle charger to charge battery again as I sat there for too long jumping up and down like an idiot with glee whooping and hollering while admiring the shiny lights Betting neighbors think I have lost my mind. Good thing kids aren't home, they would have called 9-1-1 to report their mom has gone over the edge.

Next up- tank is going back on (started her without tank- on starting fluid because I just couldn't wait to see if she actually would start). Wish charger would hurry the hell up...

...now I REALLY need a beer

[biker_guy]

The electrical switch part on the ignition switch is removable and to retain your key, just swop the little white box with the wires on the switch. It is held in place by one small screw.

don't know why I didn't think of that. Had the thing taken all apart messing with a multimeter and a piece of wire. Didn't put 2 and 2 together.

[Nessism]

Good job! You've passed your initiation!

How are the carbs?...

[Badliltexan]

Carbs need cleaning- snagged hubby when he got home and informed him that we are going to spend Sunday working on my carbs seeing how I helped him rebuild his (translation: he cleans and I'll hold the screws *giggle*).

Why Sunday? Saturday we're going on a charity run. Was hoping to tool around on my 750...but since that aint happening just yet, I'll ride on his 1100GL. Can't bring myself to ride the CB360 anymore. It just seems so...small and powerless.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Carbs need cleaning- snagged hubby when he got home and informed him that we are going to spend Sunday working on my carbs seeing how I helped him rebuild his (translation: he cleans and I'll hold the screws *giggle*).

Why Sunday? Saturday we're going on a charity run. Was hoping to tool around on my 750...but since that aint happening just yet, I'll ride on his 1100GL. Can't bring myself to ride the CB360 anymore. It just seems so...small and powerless.

Be sure to set the floats 1st thing, then go to Wide Open Throttle, then mid range and finally idle set up. Thats the way Sudsco says to do it.

For your wiring woes, do yourself a favor and buy some barrel crimps (bare metal tubes you crimp onto stripped wires) then solder the junction after you obtain a satisfactory crimp (ratched crimpers work best). Be sure to place the heat shrink on BEFORE crimping and soldering

Then put a dollop of that "liquid electrical tape" to seal the crimp and solder...not too much, just cover to isolate from exposure to atmosphere.

Finally heat shrink tubing at least 1/2-inch past any exposed (now covered by liquid tape) junctions. You will never look back or have to re-visit that crimp for the life of the bike.

Guilbeau's my Name...
Electronics MY GAME...

Been an electronic tech since 1971 when I was working in the Oil Patch and fixed some errant wiring on the derrick. Naval training as a Interior Communication Technician, and a Two-Year Electronics Technology degree, with stints working for RCA Astro Electronics Government Systems Division in Princeton NJ, Schlumberger Well Services (Open Hole and then New Product Development), Biomedical Electronics at two Hospitals, Wayne Division of Dresser Atlas (magnets are magic on these things), Prototyping Automotive Wire Harnesses for E-Controls (conversion of Gas to Propane and multi-fuels...Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota...etc), RF Microwave Debug Technician for SMT Transmitters/Recievers in the 6GHz t0 38GHz range.

...My bonafides above, 'jest so you know I ain't pulling yer leg on this wiring stuff....

Most of the connectors on our GS's are Molex (the HORROR!!!... the HORROR!!!...)

If ya'll really want to get the good connections going, replace them all with the WeatherPak series of commectors.

http://members.aol.com/bigturbo1/packard.html

[danex]

Well, I'm glad you got it working. =)

I wonder if the wiring is what could be wrong with mine... <scratches head>.

How's the beer?