Leaky fork

[Draketh]

So I used the search function and found some threads talking about it, but I never really saw anything that told me exactly how to do it.

My right fork is weeping whatever kind of fluid is inside of it, enough to make the seal slick with fluid and the forks in the front are getting progressively spongier. My question is this. How do I fix it, how do I put whatever fluid it uses back into the fork, and what parts will need to be replaced?

Thanks

[seuadr]

fork seals need replacing sounds like. i would drain and replace your fork oil. anywhere between 10 and 20 wt straight oil will work fine in your forks. do you have a manual? it outlines the process well.

[Draketh]

fork seals need replacing sounds like. i would drain and replace your fork oil. anywhere between 10 and 20 wt straight oil will work fine in your forks. do you have a manual? it outlines the process well.

Is there any place I can look for a manual outside of ordering it online? Maybe a used book store? I'm completely impatient and hate waiting for stuff to get shipped to me because I want to fix it now so I can ride!

[seuadr]

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

try here. without knowing what bike you have, i can't say for sure if it is in there, but even if it isnt, find a similar year/model and check it out, the fork process should be pretty similar.

[baco99]

i am now having the same issue on my right side.

when i had my GS500E, i made a "tool"' to help get the lower damper out from inside the fork tube. is a similar tool needed for a 1982 GS1100EK? the service manual is not very helpful...

[Draketh]

Yea, I have a 1982 GS450GAZ so its kind of an oddball around these parts being an automatic and whatnot. Maybe I'll hit up a few used book stores after work.

[Nessism]

There are a few places to download a manual for free (repairmanualclub.com for one). Do a search here and you will find more places.

To replace the fork seal you need to remove the fork, then the top cap followed by the springs and spacers. The forks are held together with a allen head cap screw that comes in from the bottom. You need to hold the damping rod on the inside of the fork to keep it from turning followed by loosening the allen screw. To hold the damping rod you can use the hex head on the bottom of a spark plug socket - worked on my 850 anyway. Once the forks are appart it's a simple matter to replace the seal.

Hope this helps and good luck.

[baco99]

is it worth going with progressive springs?

[SqDancerLynn1]

Yes and Yes Prog Springs are a good investment

[Nessism]

Progressives are nice but for non air adjustable forks, you can stiffen up the ride by removing coils from the existing spring; cut off a couple of inches of coils and replace the lost stack height with a spacer to stiffen up the front end.

[Billy_Oliver880]

Replace the fork seals (don't forget the dust seals!) it is really easy. Even a guy like me can do it. If you are after a stiffer ride go for 15 wt fork oil.

[baco99]

ok, another question:

when i did my GS500E, i ended up having to replace a number of washers internal to the suspension chamber.

should i order the following in advance, or am i being paranoid?

# 24, 4 (these circlips were rusted on the GS500), 5 (bent coming out), 6, 7, 12, 21,



anything i am missing?

[Draketh]

Can somebody point out what I should be replacing on the above schematic?

[Draketh]

I yanked my petcock out last night and ripped the o-ring so I need to order one. Can someone tell me what needs to be ordered to fix a leaky front right fork from the picture a few posts up?

[Billy_Oliver880]

6 and 24. The oil seal and the dust seal.