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Adventures in exhaust replacement
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Wouldn't use loctite on studs nor bolts, Yoy don't want it to be there forever. Like now, you want to get them out. Anti-seize would be a good idea. Those things don't vibrate & fall out, but if one did, no problem to put one back in. Much easier than what you are into now. There's a good chance that if they were installed with anti-seize, they wouldn't have twisted off in the first place. Just my opinion.1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by rphillips View PostWouldn't use loctite on studs nor bolts, Yoy don't want it to be there forever. Like now, you want to get them out. Anti-seize would be a good idea. Those things don't vibrate & fall out, but if one did, no problem to put one back in. Much easier than what you are into now. There's a good chance that if they were installed with anti-seize, they wouldn't have twisted off in the first place. Just my opinion.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by doctorgonzo View PostNew V&H should arrive today, so last night took my bike to a friend's garage to remove the old system and take care of the two bolts I knew were missing and likely sheared off. The horror show I found still has me a little nauseous. The first bad sign, "wow, none of these bolts are very tight". The reason for that... 4 of the 8 holes had ALREADY been heli-coiled. 2 of the remianing 4 barely had any threads, 1 was oversized and had no threads at all (1 of the 2 missing ones), and 1 had a sheared off bolt with the hole around it chewed all to hell like someone had tried to get at the tip of the bolt by removing the metal around it to get a grip on it. I tapped the two with minimal threads and they look like they have enought to hold, I heli-coiled the 1 oversized one (which started to dribble oil after I ran the tap down it, didn't drill AT ALL just ran a tap down it). The sheared off one we welded a nut to it 3 times, but it wouldn't hold. Managed to get a drill in it for an extractor, which promptly broke off the first try at turning it out. My mechanic friend says "you might as well give up on that one, you'll never drill out that tap, the steel is too tough".
SO... I guess tonight I am going to mount the exhaust with 5 of the 8 bolts heli-coiled, and leave the 1 bolt (the sheared one) off. I hope I can get it to seal.
Hopefully it will make it through the rest of this season as I start looking for a head...
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostOi, what are you doing with your old exhaust? Im looking for a right side pipe, just the 4 cyl pipe and meg. Mine looke REALLY good except for the meg where it got dropped and scuffed to hell years and POs ago.
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
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- The only Henniker on earth
Originally posted by rphillips View PostWouldn't use loctite on studs nor bolts, Yoy don't want it to be there forever. Like now, you want to get them out. Anti-seize would be a good idea. Those things don't vibrate & fall out, but if one did, no problem to put one back in. Much easier than what you are into now. There's a good chance that if they were installed with anti-seize, they wouldn't have twisted off in the first place. Just my opinion.Currently bikeless
'81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
'06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."
I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.
"Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by doctorgonzo View PostIt's for sale now that you mention it. Talking to one member about it, but nothing solid. On a side note. I know you are looking for an 8 valve 1100 head. I need one (or a 1000 head) if you run across more than the one you need, let me know. there are TWO 16 valve 1100 hundred heads on ebay right now, but not one 80 or greater 1000 head or 8 valve 1100 head.
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Nathan
Take that head to a machine shop and get it fixed.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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They can fill and retap.
Either way you need to pull the head. If there is nothing wrong with your head besides the exhaust threads just get it fixed.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostThey can fill and retap.
Either way you need to pull the head. If there is nothing wrong with your head besides the exhaust threads just get it fixed.
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by doctorgonzo View PostI know you're right... it was worth the couple hundred for a head to be able to get it re-built and ready to bolt on while still having the bike to ride with the old head, but no luck finding one in a hurry... so I may have to take that route, pulling it and taking to shop.
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Originally posted by doctorgonzo View PostNope.. Called 3 machine shops and as soon as I said one had an extractor broken off in it they said "well nothing we can do, never get it drilled out".Dogma
--
O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David
Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan
--
'80 GS850 GLT
'80 GS1000 GT
'01 ZRX1200R
How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by Dogma View PostNobody has a ram EDM anymore? You might have to look around for a non-automotive machine shop. Some shops even specialize in the various types of EDM. Even the smaller job shops used to have simple ones for burning out broken taps. They are sometimes called hole-poppers.
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timelapseracing
exhaust bolt and oil
I did a search looking for info on exhaust head bolts and oil and this thread came up - hope you don't mind it being pulled back out. I was chasing an oil leak that I thought was a head or valve cover gasket. It turned out the first exhaust head bolt on the ignition side of the motor was pushing oil past the bolt. In reading your thread, it rang similarly, I think the bolt had previously been tapped - the bolt is a little looser than the others - and had backed out some.
Is it normal for there to be oil pressure on the back of that bolt or do I have a head problem? The bike runs pretty well - even with the oil spray. I pulled the bolt, put some high temp RTV (orange) and some mild strength loctite on the bolt - seems to be ok on the oil leak.
I'm leaning toward the studs option too or drilling and wiring all the exhaust bolts - and fyi - www.mcmaster.com/ is an excellent source for hardware of all kinds - use them all the time on my racecar.
Just learning my way around the GS motor - oh yeah - '79 GS850G.
Thanks,
Jason.
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Originally posted by timelapseracing View PostI did a search looking for info on exhaust head bolts and oil and this thread came up - hope you don't mind it being pulled back out. I was chasing an oil leak that I thought was a head or valve cover gasket. It turned out the first exhaust head bolt on the ignition side of the motor was pushing oil past the bolt. In reading your thread, it rang similarly, I think the bolt had previously been tapped - the bolt is a little looser than the others - and had backed out some.
Is it normal for there to be oil pressure on the back of that bolt or do I have a head problem? The bike runs pretty well - even with the oil spray. I pulled the bolt, put some high temp RTV (orange) and some mild strength loctite on the bolt - seems to be ok on the oil leak.
I'm leaning toward the studs option too or drilling and wiring all the exhaust bolts - and fyi - www.mcmaster.com/ is an excellent source for hardware of all kinds - use them all the time on my racecar.
Just learning my way around the GS motor - oh yeah - '79 GS850G.
Thanks,
Jason.
EDIT: Well there's your answer. Thanks, DOC!Last edited by Dave8338; 08-05-2008, 03:16 PM.
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