GS 550L Novice Problem

[Firebirdracer82]

Hello All, I am new to the cycling world. I got one bike, but then quickly decided that another would be much better (long story). I picked up a GS 550L that had sat for a time. The former owner had the carbs rebuilt and installed them. He sold it to me prior to starting the bike, as the bike needed a new gas tank. I got the tank, and got the bike to tentatively start on the choke setting. However, it won't start normally. At the moment, I've run down the battery and I've push started it a few times. It will run, but it seems like there is no power. After running for a minute or two the bike then stalls out. I'll wait a moment and push start it again and it will run for another minute. The bike will not idle at all, and I have to keep my hand on the throttle to keep the bike from dying.

My question is this, is there some small adjustment that I need to make to the carbs so that I can ride it? Or does this sound like something where i need to pull the carbs and go through them all. If that's the case, I am not too good at it. If you're wondering why I am working on this bike, it's because I picked it up for a great price and it only has 8K original miles.

And advice would be welcomed.

[robertbarr]

If you're wondering why I am working on this bike, it's because I picked it up for a great price and it only has 8K original miles.

We never wonder why on this forum.

If you mentioned the year of your bike, I missed it. We'll need that before we go any further.

[doctorgonzo]

Personally, I wouldn't trust the previous owner's (hereafter referred to as the "PO") job on the carbs. There is a carb specs thread in this forum (for all your correct jet sizes, etc...), and a carb rebuild series in the "In The Garage" section on the main page. The carbs on these bikes have to be cleaner than clean to run right, and there are o-rings in the carbs that might need to be replaced. An air leak is also possible, either from the airbox, or the rubber boots that attach the carbs to the engine. They don't last forever and need replacement periodically.

[tkent02]

8,000 miles on an old bike is nothing, it has sat a lot. Sitting is bad.
The carburetors are surely clogged up by now, even without the rusty tank sending little particles of rust into them.

The carbs are easy to clean, there is a tutorial on this website that has most everything you need.
there is also a shop manual in a free download, Basscliff will be along shortly to tell you all about it.

Those 550s are one of the best motorcycles ever made, can go huge miles without problems once they are all caught up on the routine maintenance that has been long neglected.

[Firebirdracer82]

Thanks for all the concern. It's a 1982 GS550L, and, I believe it sat for at least a year after talking with the original owner and piecing the story together from the seller. However, it was used normally otherwise.

I got a new tank for the thing that is clean and delivers gas. I know the bike sat because I had to clean out the petcock that was clogged completely with crystallized gas. After I did that, and got fuel to start to run, is when I got the bike started, abet barely. (however, the petcock is pretty beat up anyway from someone using a rubber sealer in the previous tank)

I don't know if playing with the idle screw would help its dying when I lay off the throttle. Also, the previous owner put a huge fuel filter (not stock) on the bike and the new one barely fits under the tank. I checked the lines, and it appears one is slightly pinched, but only a slight bit. I am not sure if this would have such a disastrous effect on the bike, but I assume it could hurt.

I'm really dreading rebuilding the carbs myself. I've worked on cars before, but never on bikes.

[doctorgonzo]

Both the fuel filter (if not the right kind, a car one won't work) and the kinked line could starve for gas.

I HATE to be the bearer of bad news, but.......
If the bike sat for a year, especially with the way you describe the tank, you're just never going to get around it, you have to tear those carbs down, all the way down, soak them in a chemical dip, and replace every rubber o-ring (less than 20 bucks) when you put them back together. It's NOT as bad as you think. About 79,000,000 threads with every question answered and a detailed pictorial guide are here.

[Firebirdracer82]

I'll try the fuel line, and the filter, and see if I can get it going. If that does not work, I am going to suck it up and see if I can do the carbs myself. Even though the seller said they were rebuilt, I think that might be the problem. Let's hope it's the fuel line. Otherwise, I know I have a big job ahead of me sometime replacing the bottom gasket, that leaks a bit. All in all though, for $500 I am satisfied, even if I have to sink in some time and a bit more money.

[Firebirdracer82]

Also, thanks so much for all of your help. I'll likely have more questions, and it's great to hear from those that have done it before.

[doctorgonzo]

"seller said they were rebuilt, I think that might be the problem"

See, you're learning already!

"Rebuild" to most people (even if they don't bugger something up while doing it because they don't have the detailed instructions we have here) means slap a cheap gasket set (with 1/4 of the complete number of o-rings in it) and spray some carb cleaner through it.

[Firebirdracer82]

one final question, is the diaphragm in carb rubber? Do those rot out and will I then have to purchase hundres of dollars in rubber?

[BassCliff]

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. Firebirdracer82,

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Every GS850 (and most other models) has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***********************************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

http://www.electrosport.com/

For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
Salvage/Used
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com

http://www.ozpowersports.com/

If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:

http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki
http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Online Clymer manuals:
http://search.ebscohost.com/ Click on "Small Engine Repair" then "Motorcycles". User=library, password=library. Note: This link may not work if you are on a school campus.

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)