Bleeding Brakes and other things..

[cz_699]

Hi, this is my first post on here, although I've been addicted to reading the threads for the past two weeks since I got my 1980 G550L. It's pretty much complete (switched to pods because I'm missing 90% of the airbox) I just got it running today, after replacing the intake boots and o rings. The PO must have been a complete fool, because the rear brakes were down to the backing plates, and the front one had both pads on the same side! The caliper has been ground down against the rotor a hair but it doesn't seem to affect it's action. Before I drain out the dark brown nasty old brake fluid and replace it with new, is there any tricks or helpful tips, (on my last resurrection, a 77 kz750 twin, I learned that the rear mc is lower than the caliper making it an interesting bleed) Also, temporarily running the petcock on prime with a lawn mower shut off after it, until I pickup a new petcock, is there anything wrong with this? I know I'm in need of a carb rebuild and clean via the detailed instructions on here, because even though my bike starts and idles well, it soon starts to dump gas out the number 2 carb. I have my manual (thank you BikeCliff) and I'm looking to do a valve adjustment after my carbs are done and I'm sure my local Suzuki dealer (still 40 miles or 65 if I wanna go to one that's likely to have them in stock) . Thank you all, for asking the so many questions I've already had.


-Chad

[BassCliff]

Hey Howdy Hay!

Hi Mr. cz_699,

There's a couple things about brakes on my website. Here's your mega-welcome!

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Every GS850 (and most other models) has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***********************************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
Salvage/Used
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
http://www.ozpowersports.com/
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki
http://www.bikepics.com
Basic motorcycle maintenance/repair:
http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Online Clymer manuals:
http://search.ebscohost.com/ Click on "Small Engine Repair" then "Motorcycles". User=library, password=library. Note: This link may not work if you are on a school campus.

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

[hampshirehog]

Hi and welcome to the forum. From your nick are you in to CZs by any chance? (See my avatar).

You'll find a pad replacement tutorial on Cliff's website that might be useful. When changing your fluid it's probably easiest to just keep on pumping through clean fluid until all the old stuff appears to have gone. It can be a slowish job but is a satisfying one. (I've never bothered with any of the speed bleeding kits though others swear by them).

Your petcock arrangement sounds fine as a temp, as long as the lawnmower valve can cope with the flow ie isn't of smaller diameter.

Sounds like your needle valve is out on no 2 carb, or sticking float. The carb tutorial will help you sort that.

And check the valves sooner rather than later, especially if you're gonna tune in the carbs to suit the pods (you will be chasing your tail if your valves aren't right first).

[cz_699]

Lol, not into CZ's by a long shot (never even seen one in person) nick came from yahoo mail, several years ago because apparently ChadZiemer was taken, It kinda stuck and I use it for pretty much everything online, mainly cause it's easy for me to remember . I plan on tuning for the pods (which are the cheap emgo's) eventually, providing it does not run too lean, itmay not be for a month or two. I still haven't transferred the title into my name . It may be a slow process on this one, my Kaw twin was a rush rush winter overhaul so I had a bike this year, but newly married and new house and kid in the oven has limited my over the top spending just a hair, so I have to wait to order parts til i actually have the money now . Will probably bleed the brakes tonight and might start on the carbs. (got my Napa carb dip ready, and hoping I can find carb parts for this bike unlike my b@%&#rd KZ twin). but all in all for two hundred bucks I think I got a steal. Will post pics sometime soon.

[almarconi]

I am rebuilding the brakes on my GS. The gooey brown fluid is only the beginning. You really need to remove, disassemble and clean the MC and calipers. My MC was filled with lots of dirt and grit, the calipers had rusty bores and were pretty filthy. The parts are relatively cheap to rebuild the MC and the calipers. Its also a good idea to flush out the brake lines with clean fluid. From what you describe the PO neglected the brakes. For your safety it is best to go ahead and inspect/repair them as needed. After you get everything back together you will need to bleed them to get rid of all the air.