Front brake switch

[SNott]

So I got the little contact holder/spring/contact thingy (part #9) but when I assemble, it's all loose and the brake light doesn't go off half the time. Seems like I'm missing something maybe??

Does #9 just push up into the metal lever housing all by itself? The tab goes into the slot on the lever fine, the brass contact part of #9 protrudes about 1mm out of the "hole".



Skye

[hikermikem]

Once assembled, the base unit (#10) will slide left & right a little bit when the 2 screws (#11) are loosened - this is to adjust the brake light sensitivity. See if that's your issue.

You can also get a different switch that works hydraulically - it connects to the front brake line splitter in the front fork. It replaces that whole handlebar brake switch thingy.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3380

[Steve]

I had to remove the brake lever on my wife's 850 last week and had a little 'fun' getting it back together.
I don't remember if that little tab that sticks up is plastic or brass, but it fits into a slot in the brake lever.
The slot in the lever straddles the tab so that it can push it in either direction.

.

[almarconi]

I just installed one of these on my bike when I rebuilt the MC. It is much easier to install the switch when it is off the bike. Anyway..the little spring goes inside the plastic button and the copper contact snaps into the plastic button. On the underside of the brake lever there is a slot for the botton. The button fits in this slot and copper contact rubs against the switch contact. Put everything in place and tighten the screws. The wires from the switch terminate inside the headlight bucket. I bought the switch from georgefix off ebay for $10 plus shipping.

[SNott]

Once assembled, the base unit (#10) will slide left & right a little bit when the 2 screws (#11) are loosened - this is to adjust the brake light sensitivity. See if that's your issue.

Yup, seems OK now.

Also, the front brake lever is a little wobbly because it looks like the pivot bolt is stripped, so when I tighten that up it will probably help too.

Thanks!

[rapidray]

Also, install assembly 9 with some dielectric grease to KEEP it working in the future. Ray.

[bakalorz]

Once assembled, the base unit (#10) will slide left & right a little bit when the 2 screws (#11) are loosened - this is to adjust the brake light sensitivity. See if that's your issue.

You can also get a different switch that works hydraulically - it connects to the front brake line splitter in the front fork. It replaces that whole handlebar brake switch thingy.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3380

Is that banjo bolt also the right size to fit into the master cylinder?

(of a 650 gl if it matters)

[seuadr]

Also, install assembly 9 with some dielectric grease to KEEP it working in the future. Ray.

very good advice.. i neglected to do that with mine, and found that the switch got wet with the last rain and made the brake light stay on.. needless to say, it got a healty coating of wd-40 till i got home and put a little dielectric grease on it.

( if you don't already carry a small bottle of wd with you, i would strongly suggest it.. it comes in handy for so many things! )

[lucabond]

I just finished fixing front and back brake light switches. The back was stuck in the on position. I got it apart and freed it up shined up the contacts a little spray of cleaner\lube and it works fine. The front 1 was shorted to ground.
When I took it apart it had years of dirt and crud built up in it. The little spring was rusted to almost nothing and the contacts were oxidized.
I cut a spring from a ball point pen, it seemed the right size and fit good. Cleaned up the little u shaped contact and the 2 contacts on the board.
1 of the contacts is shorter than the other 1 so it takes a good squeez before the brake light comes on but it works. Tomorrow I'll lay a piece of tined wire next to the short contact on the board solder then together and the light should come on as soon as i pull the handle.
That was the last 2 things I had to fix on the new to me 82 gs1100gk. Im just waiting for a new RR to show up and I should be riding. Dont know about the carbs yet I've only been on 1 quick ride but I got all the Sticker Items working.

[hikermikem]

Is that banjo bolt also the right size to fit into the master cylinder?

(of a 650 gl if it matters)

Yes, I believe the banjos are 10mm dia. x 1.00mm thread on our GS machines. A phone call to Z1 if you order it should confirm though...

I think it would be a neater job connected from the front fork splitter however.

mike

[SNott]

Thanks for the tip, put some dielectric on the contacts and anti-sieze on the screws. Perfect action now. I'm sure I'll be riding in the rain sooner or later (knowing Vancouver, sooner)

-Skye