It's Alive!

[lee1rbc]

My GS1100G is alive. I replaced the starter, repaired the starter clutch and cleaned the carbs (three cans of carb cleaner). rinsed the tank and after apprx 16months being dorment it has comeback to life.

I would like to say I just turned it over and boom it started right up. Actually I went thru a can of starter fluid and this bike popped cracked and sputtered for 1/2 hour before it would start to hold an idle. I then took the bike for a spin and after about 15min of riding the bike started to pull nice at half throttle with good response. But there is no doubt I have a lean issue. On deceleration after reving to 7.5k it pops and cracks like fire crackers.

I took the temp of each header with a temp gun and 1 and 4 are at 220deg, and 2 and 3 are at 700deg

[lee1rbc]

OK, the pilot screws are on top, so does that mean it controls the amount of air? I am used to working with CBR carbs (Kehin) and the pilot screw is on the botoom of the carbs and it controls the amount of fuel. I have the pilot screws 3 turns out.

[Big T]

Sounds like your pilot jets are still clogged

Do you have the airbox? Pods?

[chef1366]

I know you don't want to hear this but you'll need to split the carb rack like here

[Steve]

Sorry, but I tend to agree with Chef.

Even three cans of carb cleaner won't get close to cleaning out what you need. It would have been cheaper to get ONE can of Berryman's carb dip and a set of o-rings from cycleorings.com and have it done in one shot.

Considering the time the bike has been dormant, I think I would dip each carb body overnight to make sure everything gets loose. Then you can use a bit of carb cleaner spray, one strand of an electrical wire and some compressed air to make sure all the passages are clean before re-assembling the rack. It will take several days because you will dip each body overnight, but you will really appreciate the end results.

While you are waiting for the carbs to be dipped is an excellent time to check the valve clearances and to go through the wiring harness to clean all the connections.

.

[lee1rbc]

I know you don't want to hear this but you'll need to split the carb rack like here

I have my fingers in my ears, did You say something?

I have taken the carbs back off and so far have pulled all four pilot srews out and cleaned. I also pulled the bowles off and cleaned and found more junk (maybe gas tank?) I am going to put it back together nad set the pilot screws at 3 turns. Maybe next week I'll buy a carb dipping kit and do it right.

[Steve]

Why not just do it now, before you go through the trouble of putting it all back together?

Don't forget to order an o-ring kit from cycleorings.com. Get the kit for your carbs, and also get the kit for the intake tubes. It is also nice to get the stainless hardware for the intake tubes, but that is somewhat optional. Second thought, the screws for the intake tubes will likely be necessary, as the stock screws will probably be trashed when you remove them.

We are not talking about a lot of money, either. The can of Berryman's will be about $20-25, the carb o-rings are about $15, the intake o-rings are about $3.50, the intake screws are about $6.50. Less than $50 and your carbs will be better than new.

.

[TheCafeKid]

My GS1100G is alive. I replaced the starter, repaired the starter clutch and cleaned the carbs (three cans of carb cleaner). rinsed the tank and after apprx 16months being dorment it has comeback to life.

I would like to say I just turned it over and boom it started right up. Actually I went thru a can of starter fluid and this bike popped cracked and sputtered for 1/2 hour before it would start to hold an idle. I then took the bike for a spin and after about 15min of riding the bike started to pull nice at half throttle with good response. But there is no doubt I have a lean issue. On deceleration after reving to 7.5k it pops and cracks like fire crackers.

I took the temp of each header with a temp gun and 1 and 4 are at 220deg, and 2 and 3 are at 700deg

Thats a good way to end up with a permantly cooked head. You think 50 bucks is spensive to clean the carbs right to prevent this, wait till you see how much a new set of valves, gasket kit, piston rings, possible machine shop time, AND a complete cleaning of the carbs cost. Not to mention how much time and effort it will take. I TOO suggest you clean your carbs properly BEFORE you continue to ride this bike any farther. There are passages in the carb bodies themselves that your can of spray cannot possibly reach. Its not just the visible jets.

[lee1rbc]

Thanks guys for the feedback. I did re-clean the pilot screws and bowls and put it back together and it ran alot better, almost perfect.

I am going to pick up a can of carb dip tonight and order new rings and gaskets. I definitely want to set the valves before I try to rev this bike past half throttle. So I will be reading up on that.

Still, it was sweet taking her for a little cruise. I am suprised how many people just stare at this bike when riding. Plus it has that classic SUk sound.shweeet.

[Dave8338]

Is that an open air box that I'm seeing there! Must just be my eyes.

[lee1rbc]

Is that an open air box that I'm seeing there! Must just be my eyes.

Yes, right after the picture I popped it back on, I was ridding around with it off.

[Dave8338]

Yes, right after the picture I popped it back on, I was ridding around with it off.

A 4-1 and an open airbox...has the bike been rejetted (please say yes)

[lee1rbc]

Only thing I have done is switch the 115 main jets to 125 main jets.

[seuadr]

seal that air box back up and it will be a happier bike. these guys are picky picky when it comes to air leaks. if youve ajusted it with the airbox off you will have to reajust a little.

[lee1rbc]

After reading what others have done I think after I dip the carbs I am going to change the starter jet from #50 to #55, and pilot jet from #40 to #45. And start tuning from there. I will be installing pods and turning the bike into more of a cafe style.