82 GS650GL - won't start with out "Starting fluid" when cold

[robertbarr]

Since it fires right up with ether, we know it's a fuel problem.

A properly tuned GS should never need throttle to start or to stay running. Either you're opening the throttle (which effectively cancels the choke setting) or your carbs have problems. Once it starts, you should be able to regulate r.p.m. entirely by using the choke control.

As always, if your valves aren't set properly, and/or there's any question of intake sealing, it's premature to mess with the carbs at all.

[fallous]

With full choke and throttle closed you should run much higher refs than 1k, easily above 2k. Never really checked mine as I start by slowly pushing in the choke once she is running, give it a bit of time to warm up and only once the choke is in fully and idle sits at 1k start riding.
The joys of having carbs compared to fuel injection! In winter time you notice the difference.
Hope your solution is easy, good luck!

I do, once I get the bike running. Full choke, start, blip throttle, gets to 3K, then no throttle and choke will hold it there. If the choke starts releasing and I get down to 1200rpm or so, I grab choke and pull. I've got a 50/50 chance of it bogging and wanting to die or revving back up. Blip throttle, jumps to 3K like it should. This only happens on cold start.

[IluvmyGS]

So, with full choke, you should not touch the throttle at all? just pull clutch handle and hit start button?

I pull the throttle with full choke engate and it works. So, I am a little confuse here...

[Dogma]

So, with full choke, you should not touch the throttle at all? just pull clutch handle and hit start button?

I pull the throttle with full choke engate and it works. So, I am a little confuse here...

I mentioned that to Steve when I visited him. He said I was pulling too much choke. And he was right. i was pulling it all the way out, and I had ot crack the throttle to start it. Now I pull it about 1/3 - 1/2, and just press start.

[Matchless]

Some bikes depending on how they are tuned and how cold they are since the last ride may need less choke. Each rider knows his bikes sweet spot!
With a fully pulled out choke definitely use no throttle at all to start and only ride or start hitting the throttle once the choke is fully back in.

The choke gives a richer mixture, and higher idling for starting and while the throttle idle circuit is independant of that, gives the proper mixture for riding on the throttle up to about 3k. If you use both at the same time you are sure to get bogging down and other unevenness.

The owners manual states this method of cold starting quite clearly and I have come accross many people who are not aware of this. It is not mentioned in any of the service manuals as far as I know.

If this does not work as explained, you should start looking at your carbs as the other posters have suggested.
Using Prime on the petcock before starting will prove if your float levels are dropping overnight.

If you have not done so check the voltage at your coils as well, just in case you also have a weak spark when cranking.

[Steve]

Although clean carbs are certainly necessary for good starting and running, don't let the use of 'easy start' confuse the issue.

Probably the most common cause of poor cold starting is tight valves. How long have you had the bike? How many miles have you put on the bike? Most manuals hint that an engine tune-up (which consists of valve adjustment, ignition checks and carb balancing) should be done every 3,000 miles. Your valve shime won't need to be changed every time, but they do need to be checked.

As the valves wear, they recess farther into the head, decreasing the clearance between the end of the stem and the cam. Of course, the bucket and shim are in there, too, and proper clearance is maintained by substituting a thinner shim. The effect this has on starting is that a valve with virtually NO clearance (and they are very small to start with) closes later. This gets later and later with decreasing clearance. The piston is alread on the upstroke when the valve closes, and at cranking speeds, the piston will start pushing some of the air/fuel mixture back into the intake tract. The next time the intake valve opens, it allows in a super-rich mixture, which is a bit hard to fire. By introducing your 'easy start', you are putting in a substance that will fire no matter what.

After you adjust your valves (and before you clean your carbs), you should be able to set the choke (probably about 1/2), pull the clutch lever (unless you have that disabled), turn the key on and hit the starter button. Chances are that you will find that you can not get your thumb off the starter button quick enough.

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[IluvmyGS]

I got this bike about 2 months ago. It currently have 21,500 miles on it. I did not check the valves clearance and will be doing this soon as per your recommendation. Mean while, I guess I will have to carry a bottle of "Starting Fluid" with me where ever I go. I am thinking about tie this bottle somewhere on the bike, make it look like a fire distinguisher (similar like in racing car)

[seuadr]

I got this bike about 2 months ago. It currently have 21,500 miles on it. I did not check the valves clearance and will be doing this soon as per your recommendation. Mean while, I guess I will have to carry a bottle of "Starting Fluid" with me where ever I go. I am thinking about tie this bottle somewhere on the bike, make it look like a fire distinguisher (similar like in racing car)

just make sure it's not on the outside of the frame.. to quote connery " there are things in here that don't react well to bullets "

[Steve]

Mean while, I guess I will have to carry a bottle of "Starting Fluid" with me where ever I go. I am thinking about tie this bottle somewhere on the bike, make it look like a fire distinguisher (similar like in racing car)

In the time it will take you to find a way to safely carry that can in a manner that also allows you to remove it and use it, you can adjust your valves. The whole time that you are using your band-aid to start the bike and run it, you are risking ruining it by burning the valves. Tight valves do not spend enough time on the seats to properly transfer heat, and will burn as a result. When a valve burns, it leaks, and the resulting leak will allow combustion gasses to escape through the leak and it won't be long before the head is ruined, too.

Please save yourself a lot of grief and adjust your valves before strapping on the can of starter fluid. That way, you will only have one project, instead of two.

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