How do i remove these screws -- any ideas

[Suzuki mad]

As its a good start for drilling go with a 3mm drill and follow the line down. Then move out to a 3.5 as these are 4mm screw threads. Hopefull as you drill the remains will unscrew.

DON'T use an easy out. Thats just more problems than you need right now.

The lock tight normally lets go very easily, looks like you were just unlucky on this one.

Suzuki mad

[Shaughn]

If you can,

Drill it from the back, using a standard pitch, rh, high speed steel, drill that
is about 75% the minor diameter of the bolt. Drilling from the back will turn it the correct way to spin it out the front, and will likely come right out. Worth borrowing a 90degree drill if need be. Just go slow. Drilling from the front is less likely to get it out, as even with a through hole, sometime the back side of the hole is tapered due to the original tap not being used to cut all the way through.

[psyguy]

The correct easy out in any application is only slightly smaller than the bolt it is meant to extract.

good info here for folks that complain of braking an ezy out when in fact they used it in a wrong way (not drilling the bolt enough and aplaying too much torque to it)

[Suzuki_Don]

Hi guys, thanks again. The bolt size is actually 6mm and not 4mm. I drilled out all three screws with a 1/8" (3.18mm) drill. Two of the screws turned about 1/4 of a turn as I was drilling them. EZI OUT into the screws, turn left with pair of pliers and out they came. See pic below.

Now two more to do and all should be sweet.

On the same kind of issue I have found that when a screw is tight in its position and will not undo (as in rubber carb manifold to cylinder head screws), it has more to do with the head of the screw locking down on the surface than the screw thread being seized in it's corresponding thread in the parent metal.

If you use an implement, short 1/4" bar maybe two or three inches long and hit the head of the screw sharply from all four sides the screw will often undo using normal tools, no impact driver required. That is how I removed my manifold screws and many others.

I could not do it in this case because the screws were countersunk and I could not get at the screw heads. Just another tip for others.

Cheers
Don

[NetBSD]

reverse drill bits are yer friend, be a good idea to go grab a set and keep them handy.

[psyguy]

On the same kind of issue I have found that when a screw is tight in its position and will not undo (as in rubber carb manifold to cylinder head screws), it has more to do with the head of the screw locking down on the surface than the screw thread being seized in it's corresponding thread in the parent metal.

If you use an implement, short 1/4" bar maybe two or three inches long and hit the head of the screw sharply from all four sides the screw will often undo using normal tools, no impact driver required. That is how I removed my manifold screws and many others.

good tip here, thanks don

[Suzuki_Don]

good tip here, thanks don

Hope it can help someone.

[Zooks]

I have removed dozens of snapped, cut, burred bolts using the exact same method -

Get a small piece of steel like a 4" nail or small bolt. Tack it onto the remainder of the bolt with a MIG welder. Grab it with vice grips and it will come out 'piece of cake'. The heat from the MIG 'zap' will break the bond and you will not even need to use force. I've even pulled snapped manifold bolts out of a flathead V8 using this method that had never been removed (since 1940).

Tip : - if you use this method, 'wiggle' the bolt as you remove it. In other words - in, out, in, out etc until it is all the way out. The tack weld is not all that strong and needs to be treated with respect. If you are gentle with it it wont bind up and break the MIG piece off. Allow it to cool before you try as it will contract as it cools and become looser.

[Suzuki_Don]

Thanks ZOOKS. The only thing I am missing is a MIG welder. Maybe one day.