Cam chain tensioner adjustment

[Guest]

So, the other day I was tired of my valvetrain noise and set out to set valve lash. While I was at it I noticed the cam chain had quite a lot of slack in it (59,000 km). So, I messed with the tension adjuster, not really knowing what I was doing or how it really works. I backed off the setscrew nut and after fiddling for awhile, ended up tightening the nut with a socket without holding the set screw I also put a socket on the nut on the adjuster side and tightened it a bit. Man, I need a swift kick. I rode the bike and it made a squealing noise.... not good. After reading about how the thing works, I got the set screw set up properly today. Then took it for a ride and it still squeals, but less.
I think when I tightened the nut by the adjuster side, it made the tension adjuster turn in. Can I just turn the knurled adjuster knob counterclockwise to fix this or should I take it off and reset it?

[TheCafeKid]

So, the other day I was tired of my valvetrain noise and set out to set valve lash. While I was at it I noticed the cam chain had quite a lot of slack in it (59,000 km). So, I messed with the tension adjuster, not really knowing what I was doing or how it really works. I backed off the setscrew nut and after fiddling for awhile, ended up tightening the nut with a socket without holding the set screw I also put a socket on the nut on the adjuster side and tightened it a bit. Man, I need a swift kick. I rode the bike and it made a squealing noise.... not good. After reading about how the thing works, I got the set screw set up properly today. Then took it for a ride and it still squeals, but less.
I think when I tightened the nut by the adjuster side, it made the tension adjuster turn in. Can I just turn the knurled adjuster knob counterclockwise to fix this or should I take it off and reset it?

Pull it off (carefully, to retain the gasket, if you dont have another. If not, and you mess the gasket up, make one out of some light cardboard. it will work just fine.) and reset it. While you have it off, inspect and clean it up. When you reset it, loosen the nut, loosen the set screw. Turn the knob out, while pushing in on the tensioner rod untill its all the way in. Lock down the set screw, and light tighten the nut. Install the tensioner, and after you have it torqued down, loosen the nut, and the set screw. The tensioner should then pop into place. You should see the knob turn back in a bit. Might help to rotate the engine by hand a time or two. Then, tighten the set screw, back it off a 1/2 turn, and while holding it in that spot, tighten the nut. The set screw should NOT be in all the way tight.

[psyguy]

you need to pull the tensioner off
that spring keeps the plunger IN but there's nothing that would pull the plunger back out, you need to do it by hand (once the tensioner is off the bike)

[psyguy]

Might help to rotate the engine by hand a time or two. .

yea, thats what the manual calls for, make sure you rotate the engine FORWARD

[Billy Ricks]

With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ¼ turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ¼ turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted Here's how to service the tensioner.

bolt loose by that ¼ turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.

[bwringer]

You've, uh, seen this. Right?

http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

[Jethro]

You got to take it off and reset it. I imagine you have the roller too snug on the chain. The tensioner isn't very good at small, fine adjustments, it's a ramp type assembly that is a one way device. The after market push rod styles are a good upgrade IMHO, although slightly more maintenance. A little slack on the cam chain between the cam gears is normal.

[gearhead13]

You've, uh, seen this. Right?

http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

Thats what i found and read to understand how it works, realizing what i had actually done. The Suzuki manual is hard to understand, something lost in the translation. I will be pulling it off and resetting it today.
Thanks.

[doctorgonzo]

You got to take it off and reset it. I imagine you have the roller too snug on the chain. The tensioner isn't very good at small, fine adjustments, it's a ramp type assembly that is a one way device. The after market push rod styles are a good upgrade IMHO, although slightly more maintenance. A little slack on the cam chain between the cam gears is normal.

HA!
They make the manual ones for you Mr 1100, us 1000 guys are SOL. I'd love to put a manual APE on mine.

[TheCafeKid]

HA!
They make the manual ones for you Mr 1100, us 1000 guys are SOL. I'd love to put a manual APE on mine.

Actually, you have a pic of your tensioner? If its the later two bolt type, an APE will work. Bolts right up to MY 1100 8v.

[gearhead13]

Well, got it done. Kind of a pain, but no more squealing noise, and quieter valvetrain to boot (my original goal). Intakes were loose, exhausts were real tight. I set them at 4 thou. manual says 4-5. seems kinda tight
Now I can hear the OTHER noises the engine makes