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Clarification on float height

  • Thread starter Thread starter DMB
  • Start date Start date
D

DMB

Guest
So I am re-assembling my carbs tonight and I am stuck on the float height. I searched and came up empty handed to my question. Here is a picture of where my float currently resides.

The caliper is at 22.4 mm which is the float height for my bike.

float.JPG


Do I need to lift the float to that height (red line in the picture below) and then bend the tab down (blue line in the picture below) so thats where the float rests?

floatmarkedup.JPG




Thanks.
 
Do I need to lift the float to that height (red line in the picture below) and then bend the tab down (blue line in the picture below) so thats where the float rests?

Yes. Make sure that you measure from the lower curved surface of the float not the flat area near the float hinge. Secondly, the float is measured as the tab is just making contact with the inlet needle valve (under your blue arrow). I find that I have to tilt carb body to a point where the float just makes contact and then measure float height without depressing float.
 
BassCliff said:
Hi Mr. DMB,

I think you're on the right track.

Take a look at this carb spec-float height page and see if it helps too.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

Thanks. I've read that page about 5 times tonight. It just seems odd to me because my float height is off by 2-4.5 mm's on my 4 carbs. Just wanted to make sure that I was doing it right.
 
Hi Mr. DMB,

Be sure to measure without the float bowl gasket, or at least allow for it (subtract it's thickness) when measuring.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Be sure to measure without the float bowl gasket, or at least allow for it (subtract it's thickness) when measuring.
Click to expand...
Most people say to allow 1mm in your measurement for the gasket, but I have found them to range from 0.6mm to 1.4mm, so I would rather remove the gasket.

As others have mentioned, measure the float level from the top of the rounded portion of the float, not the top of the step where your red line is. In the current setting, the fuel level will be 5 or 6mm too high, causing the bike to run rather rich.

.
 
Something doesn't seem right with the way those floats are setting up; they seem too far away from your caliper. Are you sure the caliper is set to 22mm? You want to lift the float and check the height right at the point where the float contacts the spring loaded tang. Normally the spring loaded pin on the float needle will hold the float up; weak springs are not fatal but not a good sign either.
 
Nessism said:
the spring loaded tang. Normally the spring loaded pin on the float needle will hold the float up.
Click to expand...

Uh Oh. I have no idea what you are refering to. I didn't have any springs on the float needle when I took it apart. Was there supposed to be?

Also, what is the spring loaded tang?

Thanks.
 
The float needle is actually an assembly; pointy body with spring inside pushing on the pin. Take one of the float needles out and make sure the pin moves smoothly.
 
Nessism said:
The float needle is actually an assembly; pointy body with spring inside pushing on the pin. Take one of the float needles out and make sure the pin moves smoothly.
Click to expand...

I took all of the bowls off and verified that all of the float needle pins are springy. Here is how I assembled it. I think it is right but I just want to double check (These are parts off of my spare rack).

floatassembly.JPG
 
You need a new O-ring on the float seat. You can get a kit from cycleorings.com if you don't already have one.
 
Nessism said:
You need a new O-ring on the float seat. You can get a kit from cycleorings.com if you don't already have one.
Click to expand...

Already have. That is a float seat from my spare rack of carbs. My good rack is already together and I put it on the bike this morning.
 
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