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    Front Brake Firmness?

    Hi All.

    How firm is firm? I can squeeze the lever to within a 3/8 inch of the grip, but no more. It doesn't move from there no matter how long I hold it, so I know that it's holding pressure.

    The rear barely moves before it's firm, but it has mostly metal lines.

    I've changed the fluid, no air.

    It's a '80 GS550L with non-braided rubber lines.

    Thanks,

    Rob

    #2
    Originally posted by ChicagoRob View Post
    Hi All.

    How firm is firm? I can squeeze the lever to within a 3/8 inch of the grip, but no more. It doesn't move from there no matter how long I hold it, so I know that it's holding pressure.

    The rear barely moves before it's firm, but it has mostly metal lines.

    I've changed the fluid, no air.

    It's a '80 GS550L with non-braided rubber lines.

    Thanks,

    Rob

    That's not so good. Are you running the original brake lines? If so, you need to change that asap. Realistically, you should only be able to squeeze maybe half the travel at best before you're solidly locked up. If you haven't rebuilt the master cylinder, it's probably time to do that also. It's not hard.

    Good luck.

    Comment


      #3
      If you have a M/C with a bore of 1/2" fitted and double front disk calipers then you will get that, more travel and a softer lever. If you have a 5/8" M/C bore with the double caliper setup it will have less travel and more firmer.
      The size is usually stamped on the bottom of the M/C.

      Comment


        #4
        You should change to modern lines. It's your life.
        NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

        Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
        Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

        Comment


          #5
          If your front pads are severely worn, the cylinders in the calipers will be extended..resulting in more lever travel at your MC. The fluid level in your reservoir will drop and the lever will feel spongy. Different bikes have different "feel" to the brake lever, I know this is true with both my bikes. When properly working though the brakes should engage within the first inch or so of lever travel. If you can pull the lever almost back to the grip something is wrong.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by almarconi View Post
            If your front pads are severely worn, the cylinders in the calipers will be extended..resulting in more lever travel at your MC.



            brake lever travel has nothing to do with the wear of the pads as the system is filled with fluid and fluid is not compressible
            so regardless of the quantity of fluid in the system the lever travel stays the same
            GS850GT

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by ChicagoRob View Post
              How firm is firm? I can squeeze the lever to within a 3/8 inch of the grip, but no more. It doesn't move from there no matter how long I hold it, so I know that it's holding pressure.
              thats to be expected from old rubber lines and is not dangerous as long as you're used to having to squeze the lever quite firmly
              you do not want to be able to squeze the lever ALL the way to the grip though!
              as mentioned, new braided lines will give you a firmer feel on the lever so braking will require less effort on your part
              GS850GT

              Comment


                #8
                Stainless line would help as others mentioned. Another thing is to make sure the sliding pins on the caliper are well greased and not binding. If the pins are binding, the caliper will have to be forced into place before the pads contact the disc which adds to the soft lever feel. Number one thing leading to spongy feel is air in the brake system. You might want to crack open the banjo fittings while the system is under pressure to see if there is any trapped air (use a wrag over the banjo when you do this since the fluid will spray everywhere).

                Good luck.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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